• A white plastic bottle with a ribbed cap and brown kraft label of dr forest liquid gypsum soil conditioner 20 calcium 15 sulphur 500ml
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Dr Forest

Organic Liquid Gypsum

Organic Liquid Gypsum

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Organic liquid gypsum — 19.55% calcium, 5 micron particles, with fulvic acid

19.55% Calcium 15.31% Sulphur 5 Micron Particles Contains Fulvic Acid Clay Buster Organic Approved

Calcium is the mineral that controls everything else in the soil. It determines soil structure: calcium holds clay particles together in the open, aggregated crumb that allows air, water, and roots to move freely. It governs plant cell integrity: every new cell wall requires calcium as a structural component. And it is the primary factor in the fruit quality disorders that frustrate growers everywhere — blossom end rot in tomatoes and peppers, bitter pit in apples, tip-burn in lettuce, and internal browning in brassicas are all calcium deficiency disorders, not fertiliser failures.

This liquid gypsum is a high-analysis suspension of natural calcium sulphate, micronised to an average particle size of just 5 microns and combined with fulvic acid for enhanced crop response. At this particle size, 25 litres of product is equivalent in immediately available calcium to one tonne of conventional gypsum. The micronisation dramatically amplifies surface area and weathering rate — this is not a slow-release granular; it is a fast-acting calcium and sulphur delivery system that begins working in the root zone within hours of application.

Gypsum — calcium sulphate — has a second critical role beyond calcium delivery: the sulphate component displaces excess sodium and magnesium from clay particles, allowing them to be leached from the root zone. In heavy clay soils and soils with a history of hard water irrigation or sodium accumulation, liquid gypsum is the most effective and fastest-acting soil structure corrector available.

19.55%Calcium (Ca)
15.31%Sulphur (S)
5μmParticle Size
1 tonneEquiv. per 25L

What liquid gypsum is used for in the garden

  • Blossom end rot prevention & correction — the most responsive treatment for blossom end rot in tomatoes, peppers, courgettes, and aubergines; calcium sulphate applied to the root zone begins correcting calcium deficiency in expanding fruit within days
  • Bitter pit in apples — calcium deficiency in stored apple fruit is directly corrected by regular liquid gypsum applications from fruit set onwards; improves both fresh eating quality and storage life
  • Tip-burn in leafy crops — lettuce, cabbage, and kale tip-burn is a calcium delivery failure caused by inadequate transport into new leaves; root drenches maintain the constant calcium supply needed by fast-growing leafy crops
  • Clay soil conditioning — sulphate displaces sodium and magnesium from clay particles, allowing them to aggregate into a better structure with improved drainage, aeration, and root penetration; the liquid form delivers this directly into the root zone
  • Hard water soil correction — regular irrigation with hard water gradually deposits calcium carbonate and sodium in the soil; gypsum's sulphate component reacts with sodium to form soluble sodium sulphate which leaches out
  • Sulphur supply — sulphur is the fourth major crop nutrient after NPK and is frequently deficient in UK soils following the reduction in atmospheric sulphur deposition since the 1990s; gypsum delivers an immediately available sulphate-sulphur alongside calcium
  • Cell wall construction in fruiting crops — calcium is a structural component of every new plant cell wall; fruiting crops building rapid cell mass during fruit set and fill have extremely high calcium demands that most soils cannot supply fast enough without supplementation
  • Foliar calcium correction — the micronised suspension can be applied as a foliar spray for rapid calcium delivery directly through the leaf surface; particularly useful for fast-growing crops where deficiency symptoms develop faster than root uptake can correct them

Why gypsum rather than lime for calcium?

Liquid Gypsum (Calcium Sulphate)

  • Delivers calcium without meaningfully altering soil pH — suitable for neutral and alkaline soils
  • Supplies sulphate-sulphur simultaneously — addresses the UK's widespread sulphur deficit
  • Sulphate displaces sodium from clay exchange sites — actively improves soil structure
  • Micronised to 5 microns — immediately available in the root zone within hours
  • Combined with fulvic acid for enhanced calcium uptake
  • Safe for use alongside lime — they serve complementary purposes
  • ACO Organic Certified

Agricultural Lime (Calcium Carbonate)

  • Significantly raises soil pH — useful only where acidity needs correcting
  • Does not supply sulphur
  • No sodium displacement — does not improve clay structure
  • Reacts slowly; calcium release takes months to years
  • Can raise pH above optimal range on already-neutral soils
  • The correct choice when both acidity and calcium deficiency need addressing
  • Do not use on soils already at pH 6.5 or above for calcium supply alone

The science of calcium and sulphur: soil structure, cell integrity, and why deficiency shows in fruit

Calcium's dual role — soil structure and plant physiology

Calcium is unusual among plant nutrients in that it is simultaneously critical to soil chemistry and plant biology. In the soil, calcium acts as the primary cation binding clay particles together into stable aggregates — the open, crumb structure that allows drainage, aeration, and root exploration. When calcium is displaced from clay exchange sites by sodium or magnesium, clay particles disperse and the soil structure collapses into a dense, impermeable layer. Restoring calcium to those exchange sites is the mechanism by which gypsum corrects clay soils.

Inside the plant, calcium is an immobile structural nutrient — unlike nitrogen or potassium, it cannot be remobilised from older tissue to supply new growth. Every new cell wall requires a fresh supply of calcium delivered by the transpiration stream from the roots. When the rate of new cell production in developing fruit exceeds the rate of calcium delivery — typically during rapid fruit expansion in heat or after irregular watering — the newest cells are formed with deficient cell walls that collapse and die. This is the visible result of blossom end rot and bitter pit: not a shortage of calcium in the soil, but a failure of delivery to the fastest-growing tissue.

The calcium role — Cell walls, soil aggregates & fruit integrity

  • Structural component of every new plant cell wall via the middle lamella
  • Binds clay particles into stable soil aggregates through electrostatic attraction
  • Immobile in plants — cannot be translocated from old tissue to new growth
  • Deficiency always shows in newest, fastest-growing tissue first
  • Critical during fruit set and rapid fruit fill in all fruiting crops
  • Delivered as plant-available Ca²⁺ from calcium sulphate dissolution

The sulphate role — Sodium displacement, protein synthesis & soil health

  • Fourth major crop nutrient — frequently deficient in UK soils since the 1990s
  • Required for cysteine, methionine, and other sulphur-containing amino acids
  • Sulphate displaces sodium from clay exchange sites — the clay-busting mechanism
  • Sodium sulphate formed is soluble and leaches from the root zone with watering
  • Strongly involved in root development and crop immune function
  • Immediately available as sulphate-S — no microbial conversion required

Six mechanisms of action

01

Cell Wall Construction

Calcium is the primary component of the middle lamella — the layer between plant cells that determines cell wall integrity and firmness. Every rapidly dividing cell in a developing fruit, leaf, or root tip requires a continuous supply of calcium. Liquid gypsum delivers calcium sulphate directly into the root zone in immediately absorbable form, maintaining the rate of calcium supply needed to match fast cell division during fruit set and fill.

02

Clay Flocculation & Soil Structure

Clay particles carry a negative surface charge that is normally balanced by calcium ions — keeping them aggregated into stable crumbs. When sodium or magnesium displaces calcium from these exchange sites, clay particles disperse and pack tightly, destroying soil structure. Calcium sulphate restores calcium to those exchange sites while sulphate reacts with displaced sodium to form sodium sulphate — a soluble salt that leaches out with watering.

03

Sodium Displacement

In gardens irrigated with hard water, or where soils have a history of sodium accumulation, liquid gypsum provides the fastest practical method of sodium management. The calcium from gypsum displaces sodium from clay exchange sites; the sulphate converts the free sodium to soluble sodium sulphate; regular watering then leaches the sodium sulphate below the root zone. This process can measurably improve soil tilth within a single season of regular applications.

04

Sulphur as Protein Builder

Sulphur is essential for the synthesis of cysteine, methionine, and other sulphur-containing amino acids that are the building blocks of plant proteins, enzymes, and glucosinolates. UK soils have been consistently sulphur-deficient since atmospheric deposition from industrial emissions declined in the 1990s. Gypsum delivers immediately available sulphate-sulphur that requires no microbial conversion before root uptake — the fastest-acting sulphur source available in organic gardening.

05

Fulvic Acid Enhanced Uptake

The fulvic acid included in this formulation chelates the calcium ions in solution, keeping them mobile and preventing precipitation when the product is mixed with other inputs or applied to alkaline soils. Fulvic acid also increases the permeability of root cell membranes, improving the rate at which calcium and sulphate ions are actively absorbed. The result is measurably faster and more complete uptake compared to unfulficated calcium sulphate suspensions.

06

Fruit Quality & Shelf Life

Calcium is the principal determinant of fruit firmness: adequate calcium in developing fruit cell walls produces firm, dense tissue that resists bruising, breakdown, and post-harvest decay. Regular liquid gypsum applications during fruit set and fill consistently improve the firmness and shelf life of tomatoes, peppers, apples, strawberries, and other calcium-sensitive crops — extending the window for harvest, storage, and sale.

Scientific References

  1. Bangerth, F. (1979). Calcium-related physiological disorders of plants. Annual Review of Phytopathology, 17, 97–122.
  2. Ho, L.C. & White, P.J. (2005). A cellular hypothesis for the induction of blossom-end rot in tomato fruit. Annals of Botany, 95(4), 571–581.
  3. White, P.J. & Broadley, M.R. (2003). Calcium in plants. Annals of Botany, 92(4), 487–511.
  4. Bronick, C.J. & Lal, R. (2005). Soil structure and management: a review. Geoderma, 124(1–2), 3–22.
  5. Tisdale, S.L. et al. (1993). Soil Fertility and Fertilizers (5th ed.). Macmillan. [Sulphur nutrition in plants]
  6. Canellas, L.P. & Olivares, F.L. (2014). Physiological responses to humic substances as plant growth promoters. Chemical and Biological Technologies in Agriculture, 1(1), 3.

How to use liquid gypsum: preparation, application rates & guide

Shake well before every use

This is a suspension, not a solution — the micronised gypsum particles settle on standing. Shake or stir vigorously for at least 30 seconds before measuring. If the bottle has been sitting for an extended period, invert and shake several times before use. Do not store in a pre-diluted form — always dilute fresh for each application.

Application rates

Root drench — general maintenance

Rate: 1 tsp (5 ml) per litre  |  Frequency: Every 2–4 weeks

Standard rate for all plants during the growing season. Apply around the root zone, not over the crown. Water in well after application. Compatible with all Dr Forest fertilisers.

Root drench — active deficiency or high demand

Rate: 2 tsp (10 ml) per litre  |  Frequency: Weekly until resolved, then fortnightly

Use when blossom end rot, bitter pit, or tip-burn is already occurring, or for calcium-hungry crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and apples during rapid fruit fill. Return to the standard rate once symptoms subside.

Foliar spray — rapid correction

Rate: 5 ml per litre  |  Frequency: Weekly during fruit set and fill

Delivers calcium directly through the leaf and fruit surface for the fastest possible correction of deficiency symptoms. Apply in early morning or evening. Avoid full sun — the suspension may leave a white residue at higher rates. Filter through 200 micron mesh before use in fine spray nozzles.

Clay soil conditioning

Rate: 10–15 ml per litre at 1 L/m²  |  Frequency: Every 2–4 weeks during the growing season

Higher rate for structural correction of chemically dispersed or sodium-affected clay soils. Apply to the soil surface and water in thoroughly. Combine with regular humic acid drenches for best long-term results. See the clay breaker guide below for full instructions and how to diagnose whether your drainage problem is chemical or mechanical.

Fertigation — drip or trickle

Rate: 5–10 ml per litre  |  Frequency: Every 2–4 weeks

Add to the irrigation reservoir after main nutrient solution. Use a coarse inline filter (500 micron minimum). Not suitable for precision drip emitters with apertures below 500 microns without filtration. Shake product well before adding.

Spot treatment — individual plants

Rate: 5 ml per litre; 200–500 ml per plant  |  Frequency: Weekly for 2–3 weeks then assess

For a single plant showing blossom end rot or bitter pit, apply directly around the root zone at the higher volume to saturate the root zone with immediately available calcium.

Using liquid gypsum as a clay breaker to improve drainage

Clay soil that drains poorly, puddles after rain, turns to a sticky mass when wet, and sets like concrete when dry is one of the most common problems in UK gardens — and gypsum is the most effective chemical treatment for it. But there is a critical distinction that most advice fails to make: gypsum only works on clay that has a chemical structure problem, not clay that has a mechanical compaction problem. Understanding the difference before you start will save you time, money, and frustration.

When gypsum will help — chemically dispersed clay

  • Clay particles have lost the calcium that holds them in open aggregates
  • Sodium or magnesium has displaced calcium on clay exchange sites, causing particles to disperse and pack flat
  • The result is a dense, airless layer that sheds water rather than absorbing it
  • Common in gardens with hard water irrigation, high-sodium soils, or where builders have exposed and disturbed subsoil clay
  • Gypsum's calcium replaces sodium on exchange sites; sulphate converts the sodium to a soluble salt that washes out
  • Drainage improvement is usually measurable within one season of regular applications

When gypsum will not help — mechanically compacted soil

  • Soil structure has been physically destroyed by weight — foot traffic, machinery, heavy lawn rollers, vehicles on wet ground
  • The clay chemistry may be perfectly fine, but the soil particles have been physically pressed together, eliminating pore spaces
  • No chemical amendment can undo mechanical compression — the soil needs physical intervention
  • Common on paths, play areas, lawn edges, around new-build houses where heavy equipment has driven over subsoil
  • The fix is mechanical: deep forking, broadfork aeration, hollow-tine aeration (lawns), or double-digging with organic matter incorporation
  • Once the compaction is physically broken, then gypsum can prevent the clay from re-dispersing
Important — gypsum does not fix compacted soil

If your drainage problem is caused by mechanical compaction — heavy foot traffic, machinery, or building work — gypsum will not improve it. No liquid or powder product can undo physical compression. The soil must first be physically opened up using a fork, broadfork, hollow-tine aerator, or by digging in coarse organic matter. Once the structure has been mechanically restored, liquid gypsum can then be applied to stabilise the clay aggregates and prevent them from dispersing again. Applying gypsum to compacted soil without first relieving the compaction is ineffective and a waste of product.

How to test whether your soil is compacted or chemically dispersed

Before reaching for gypsum, run these two simple tests to diagnose whether your clay problem is chemical (gypsum will help) or mechanical (it will not). Both tests take minutes and require no equipment beyond a screwdriver and a jam jar.

01

The screwdriver test — checking for compaction

Push a long screwdriver or a thin metal rod into the soil in the problem area. Do this when the soil is moist but not waterlogged — a day or two after rain is ideal. In uncompacted soil, the screwdriver should push in relatively easily to at least 15–20 cm with moderate hand pressure. If it meets a hard, resistant layer that stops it — or if you cannot push it beyond 5–10 cm without significant force — you have a compaction pan. This is a mechanical problem. Gypsum will not fix it. You need to break through that layer physically first: fork it, broadfork it, or hollow-tine aerate it. Test in several spots across the problem area to map where the compaction layer sits.

02

The jar test — checking for dispersed clay

Fill a clean glass jam jar one-third full with soil from the problem area. Fill the rest with clean water, add a teaspoon of dishwasher salt (not washing-up liquid), screw the lid on tightly, and shake vigorously for two minutes. Then leave the jar completely undisturbed for 24–48 hours. In a healthy soil, you will see distinct layers settle: coarse sand at the bottom, silt above it, clay on top, with the water clearing to a light amber. In a chemically dispersed clay soil, the water will remain cloudy or milky for days — the fine clay particles stay in suspension because they have no calcium holding them together. If your water is still turbid after 48 hours, your clay is dispersed and gypsum will help. Now repeat the test with a second jar — same soil, same water, but this time add a teaspoon of gypsum powder (or a capful of this liquid gypsum) along with the salt. Shake and leave for 48 hours. If the water in the gypsum jar clears significantly faster than the control jar, that is direct confirmation that your soil will respond to gypsum treatment.

03

The ribbon test — confirming clay content

Take a small lump of moist soil and roll it between your palms into a ball, then squeeze it between your thumb and forefinger to form a flat ribbon. True clay soil will form a smooth, shiny ribbon 5 cm or longer before breaking. Sandy or silty soils will crumble and refuse to ribbon. If you cannot form a ribbon at all, your drainage problem is unlikely to be clay-related and gypsum will not be the answer — look at subsoil panning, water table issues, or surface grading instead. If the ribbon is long and smooth, you have genuine clay and one of the two tests above will tell you whether gypsum or physical intervention is the correct treatment.

Clay breaker application programme

If your tests confirm chemically dispersed clay, follow this programme for the best results:

Initial treatment — months 1–3

Rate: 15 ml per litre at 1 L/m²  |  Frequency: Every 2 weeks

Apply the full clay conditioning rate fortnightly for the first three months. Water in thoroughly after each application — the calcium and sulphate must reach the clay layer to work. Apply to the soil surface evenly; do not concentrate on individual spots. If the area is large, use a watering can with a rose attachment or a knapsack sprayer. Begin in early spring or autumn when the soil is moist and workable.

Maintenance — month 4 onwards

Rate: 10 ml per litre at 1 L/m²  |  Frequency: Monthly

Reduce to the monthly maintenance rate once you begin to see improvement in surface drainage or soil workability. Continue throughout the growing season. Most clay soils show measurable improvement in tilth and drainage within one full season of regular application.

Combining with organic matter

Rate: As above  |  Frequency: Annual organic matter addition

Gypsum corrects the chemistry; organic matter improves the biology and physical structure. For the fastest improvement, apply liquid gypsum on the regular schedule above and simultaneously incorporate coarse organic matter — garden compost, well-rotted manure, composted bark, or leaf mould — into the top 15–20 cm whenever you have the opportunity to dig or fork the soil. Adding Humic Acid Granules as a monthly drench alongside the gypsum further accelerates aggregate formation.

Step-by-step preparation

  1. Shake the bottle thoroughly. Invert and shake vigorously for 30 seconds before measuring. The suspension settles quickly — never measure from an unshaken bottle or you will get an inconsistent dose.
  2. Measure into a small jug first. Measure the required amount — 1 tsp (5 ml) per litre for standard use, 2 tsp (10 ml) for higher demand situations — into a small measuring jug. The product is thick and creamy; it pours slowly.
  3. Add to water and stir well. Add the measured liquid gypsum to your watering can or spray container filled with the required volume of water. Stir well — the suspension will remain stable during normal use.
  4. Apply to the root zone or foliage. For root drenches, apply evenly around the base of the plant and water in. For foliar, filter through a fine mesh and apply in early morning or evening. Avoid full sun application.
  5. Use fresh — do not store diluted. Prepare only as much as you need for each application and use immediately. Do not mix in advance and store the diluted product.
Preventing blossom end rot — the timing that matters

Blossom end rot, bitter pit, and tip-burn are most effectively prevented by starting liquid gypsum applications before symptoms appear. By the time you see the first blackened blossom end or sunken brown pit, the calcium deficiency occurred 2–3 weeks earlier during rapid cell division. Begin root drenches at 1 tsp/L fortnightly from transplanting or fruit set, and increase to weekly at 2 tsp/L during the most rapid fruit expansion period. Once symptoms appear, continue at the higher rate and add a weekly foliar spray for fastest correction of the current flush of fruit.

Works well combined with…

For maximum calcium delivery into rapidly growing tissue, combine liquid gypsum root drenches with Fulvic Acid Powder added to the same can — the fulvic acid chelates the calcium ions for faster membrane transport into root cells. For long-term soil structure building alongside the immediate calcium supply from gypsum, use Humic Acid Granules as a monthly soil drench — humic acid raises the CEC of the soil, helping it hold calcium between applications. In clay-affected soils, the combination of liquid gypsum (structural correction) and humic acid (aggregate building) produces the fastest measurable improvement in soil tilth.

Frequently asked questions about liquid gypsum

This is the most common confusion around blossom end rot — and the answer is that it is a delivery problem, not a supply problem. Calcium is immobile in plants: it travels only upward through the transpiration stream and cannot be moved from old tissue to new. Developing tomato fruit at the blossom end are the last tissue in the plant to receive calcium, and they are dividing cells faster than almost anywhere else in the plant. Any disruption to calcium flow — hot weather, irregular watering, root damage — causes the newest cells to form with inadequate calcium in their walls. Those cells collapse and die. Increasing the concentration of immediately available calcium in the root zone with regular liquid gypsum drenches maintains the supply rate and prevents the deficit.
Lime (calcium carbonate) supplies calcium but also significantly raises soil pH, which is often undesirable on already-neutral or slightly alkaline soils. It also reacts slowly and releases calcium over months. Gypsum (calcium sulphate) supplies calcium without meaningfully changing soil pH — making it the correct choice when calcium is needed but pH is already adequate. The micronised suspension format delivers calcium in immediately available form, not over months. Gypsum also supplies sulphate-sulphur, which lime does not, and the sulphate component actively displaces sodium from clay to improve soil structure. If your soil is both acid and calcium deficient, lime corrects both. If your soil is already at the right pH, liquid gypsum is the appropriate calcium source.
At standard root drench rates there is no visible residue. Applied as a foliar spray at higher concentrations, the product can leave a fine white mineral deposit on leaves and fruit — this is the micronised gypsum itself and is harmless. For foliar applications on fruiting crops close to picking, use the lower end of the rate range and apply in early morning so the residue dries and blends in. On vegetables where appearance is less critical, any residue washes off with rain or irrigation.
The 1 tsp/L (5 ml/L) rate is a maintenance dose — suitable for regular fortnightly applications throughout the season to keep calcium supply consistent. The 2 tsp/L (10 ml/L) rate is a corrective dose for use when calcium deficiency symptoms are already showing, when calcium-hungry crops are in rapid fruit fill, or when soil calcium levels are known to be low. It delivers twice the calcium per watering and is appropriate for weekly application until symptoms resolve. There is no phytotoxicity risk at either rate — calcium sulphate is a benign mineral with no phytotoxic threshold at garden application levels.
Any rapidly fruiting crop with high calcium demand benefits significantly. The most responsive are tomatoes (blossom end rot prevention), peppers and aubergines, apples and pears (bitter pit), strawberries (improved firmness and shelf life), courgettes and cucumbers, and leafy brassicas including lettuce, cabbage, and kale (tip-burn prevention). Root crops such as potatoes, carrots, and parsnips also benefit from the sulphur supply. For roses and flowering plants, calcium supports firm, well-formed flowers and strengthens stems. The sulphur is particularly relevant for brassicas, alliums, and any crop where flavour depends on sulphur-containing compounds.
Yes. This product is certified for use in organic agriculture by the Australian Certified Organic (ACO) programme (Restricted status — do not exceed recommended rates). Calcium sulphate is a naturally occurring mineral with no synthetic chemistry, no toxicity to soil organisms or mammals, and no withholding period for edible crops. Once the drench has been absorbed or the foliar spray has dried, the garden is safe for pets and children as normal.
Yes — and it is particularly valuable in hard water areas. Hard water contains dissolved calcium carbonate, which deposits progressively in soil and creates a calcium-rich but alkaline, poorly structured environment. The sulphate from liquid gypsum helps displace sodium and excess magnesium that accumulate with repeated hard water irrigation, and the immediately available calcium in sulphate form is more easily taken up by plants than the carbonate calcium from the water itself. Regular liquid gypsum applications are one of the most practical tools for managing soil quality in hard water areas.
No — and this is the single most common misunderstanding about gypsum. Gypsum works by replacing sodium and magnesium on clay exchange sites with calcium, which causes dispersed clay particles to aggregate into a more open structure. This is a chemical process. Compaction is a mechanical problem — the soil particles have been physically pressed together by weight (foot traffic, machinery, vehicles, rollers) and no chemical amendment can undo that. If a screwdriver pushed into moist soil meets a hard resistant layer within 5–10 cm, you have compaction. The fix is physical: fork it, broadfork it, or hollow-tine aerate it. Once the compaction is mechanically relieved, gypsum can then be applied to stabilise the clay aggregates and prevent re-dispersal. Without relieving the compaction first, applying gypsum is ineffective.
Use the jar test. Fill a clean jam jar one-third with soil from the problem area, fill the rest with water, add a teaspoon of dishwasher salt, and shake vigorously for two minutes. Leave undisturbed for 48 hours. If the water remains cloudy or milky, your clay is chemically dispersed and gypsum will help. To confirm, repeat the test in a second jar but add a teaspoon of gypsum. If the gypsum jar clears faster than the control, your soil will respond to treatment. If the water in the first jar clears on its own and settles into distinct layers, your clay chemistry is fine and gypsum is unlikely to improve drainage — your problem may be compaction, subsoil panning, or a high water table instead.
Store in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. This product has been tested to store safely down to 5°C — sedimentation may occur below this temperature but is reversible on warming and shaking. Do not allow to freeze. Store the concentrate in its original container — do not pre-dilute and store. Shake well before each use. Shelf life is at least 12 months from manufacture when stored correctly.
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