Perennial

How to grow delphiniums

Delphinium elatum hybrids

Delphiniums need full sun, shelter from wind and deep, fertile soil that holds moisture in summer but drains in winter. Plant in March or April for flower spikes in June and July. Three jobs decide the result: keep slugs off the new shoots from February, stake before the stems reach 30 cm, and feed generously, because this is one of the hungriest border perennials. Cut back after flowering for a second, smaller show in September.

Hardiness
Fully hardy
Position
Full sun, sheltered
Soil
Deep, rich, moisture-retentive, free-draining
Ideal pH
6.5 to 7.5
Water
Moderate to high in dry spells
Feeding
Heavy feeder

Sowing and planting delphiniums

WhenPlant Mar to Apr; flowers Jun to Jul (second flush Sep if cut back)

Starting off

Plant pot-grown crowns Mar to Apr or Sep. Sow fresh seed Feb to Mar at 15 to 18 °C, 3 mm deep, germination 14 to 28 days; old seed loses viability within a year. Named forms come from basal cuttings 8 cm long taken Mar to Apr when shoots are solid, rooted in grit at 15 °C; divide clumps in Mar every 3 to 4 years.

Spacing and planting

Plant 60 to 90 cm apart in a clump of three, or in a row 45 cm apart with 90 cm between rows; set the crown at soil level. Not a container plant beyond a 50 cm tub for dwarf 'Magic Fountain' types.

Varieties worth growing

Pacific Hybrids 'Black Knight'
Deep violet-blue with a dark eye, about 1.5 m, widely sold and easy from seed. Shorter-lived than named cutting-raised plants, so expect to replace it every few years.
Magic Fountains Series
Dwarf at about 90 cm with full-sized spikes. Needs little staking and is the one to choose for a windy garden or a large tub.
New Millennium Series 'Pagan Purples'
Modern seed strain with thick, strong stems and double purple flowers; stands up to weather and mildew better than the Pacific Hybrids.
D. elatum 'Faust'
Named variety raised from cuttings, tall at up to 2 m, in ultramarine with a dark eye. Long-lived if divided, for the back of a sheltered border.
Belladonna Group 'Völkerfrieden'
Branching plant about 1 m tall with loose sprays of gentian blue instead of one heavy spike. Lighter in the border, good for cutting and repeat flowers readily.

Delphiniums month by month

Timings are for central England. Allow two weeks later in the north and on cold, heavy soil.

  1. January

    Clear dead leaves from the crowns and top up the ring of grit.

  2. February

    Start slug patrols as the first shoots show. Sow fresh seed indoors at 15 to 18 °C.

  3. March

    Plant, or divide old clumps. First feed and a mulch. Take basal cuttings.

  4. April

    Thin established clumps to the strongest 5 to 7 shoots. Stake when growth reaches 30 cm.

  5. May

    Second, lighter feed. Tie in every 30 cm. Start potash liquid feeds as the spikes form. Water in dry spells.

  6. June

    Flowering. Keep tying in and watering.

  7. July

    Cut spent spikes down, feed and water well for a second flush.

  8. August

    Keep the regrowth watered. Remove mildewed leaves.

  9. September

    Second flush flowers. Pot-grown plants can go in this month.

  10. October

    Nothing to do beyond clearing fallen leaves from around the crowns.

  11. November

    Cut all stems to the ground and ring the crown with grit.

  12. December

    Nothing to do.

Feeding delphiniums

A hungry plant: tall spikes built in ten weeks need a balanced feed in spring, potassium as the spikes form and another feed after cutting back. Rich soil and a mulch matter as much as the fertiliser.

NNitrogenModerate
PPhosphorusModerate
KPotassiumHigh

Hungry for those tall spires, rich soil and a balanced spring feed; mulch well.

Feeding plan

WhenWhatHow much

March, as shoots emerge

All Purpose Fertiliser 4-4-4

100 g/m² scattered round the clump and lightly forked in; a group of three plants covers about a square metre, so roughly 35 g each. Follow with a 5 cm mulch of garden compost, kept off the crown.

Early May, 5 to 6 weeks later

All Purpose Fertiliser 4-4-4

50 g/m² as a top-up, watered in.

Mid May to late June, as spikes form and colour

Potassium Rich Fertiliser 11% K

1 g per litre of water (10 g in a 10 litre can) every 2 weeks, about 5 litres to each established clump.

July, after cutting back the spent spikes

All Purpose Fertiliser 4-4-4

50 g/m² watered in thoroughly, to fuel the September flush. Nothing after this.

Potting, dwarf varieties in tubs

All Purpose Fertiliser 4-4-4

5 g per litre of compost mixed in: 250 g for a 50 cm tub holding about 50 litres. Top-dress at 2 g per litre (100 g) in May.

Signs to watch

What you seeCauseWhat to do

Floppy spikes with pale, large leaves

Nitrogen excess and shade

High-potash feed and full sun

Lower leaves yellow with brown edges in Jul

Potash short

Sulphate of potash

Small, late spikes on an old clump

Congestion

Divide in Mar and replant in soil enriched with compost

Pests, diseases and problems

What you seeCauseWhat to do

Shoots fail to appear in spring, or come up chewed and hollowed at the base

Slugs and snails feeding on the crown and new shoots from late winter, the most common cause of lost delphiniums

Clear old debris from the crown in January, ring it with sharp grit, and hand-pick at night from February. Apply nematodes as soon as the soil reaches 5 °C and again six weeks later.

White powdery coating on leaves and stems from midsummer

Powdery mildew, worst on crowded clumps that are dry at the root

Thin shoots in April, water deeply in dry spells and mulch. Cutting the plant back after flowering removes most of it; clear and bin the foliage in autumn.

Large, irregular black blotches on the leaves, spreading to stems and flower buds

Delphinium black blotch, a bacterial disease splashed up from the soil in wet weather

Remove affected leaves as soon as they appear and avoid overhead watering. Dig up and bin plants that are badly affected, and do not replant delphiniums in the same place.

Leaves with brown, dried patches towards the tips, containing small grubs

Delphinium leaf miner

Pick off and bin mined leaves. The damage is unsightly but does not stop flowering.

Flower buds and young leaves eaten, with caterpillars hidden in the spike in June and July

Caterpillars of the golden plusia and other moths

Search the spikes and remove caterpillars by hand.

Crown is brown and rotten in spring and no shoots grow

Crown rot after a winter in wet, heavy soil

Improve drainage before replanting, set the crown at soil level, never deeper, and keep mulch off it. On clay, plant on a slight mound.

Pruning

Pruning and care

Thin a mature clump to 5 to 7 of the strongest shoots in Apr. Stake each spike with a 1.5 m cane at 30 cm tall, tying every 30 cm, or set a grow-through grid by May. Cut spent spikes to the ground and feed for a Sep second flush; cut to the ground in Nov and ring the crown with grit.

Good to knowStake early against wind; thin shoots for stronger spikes.

Growing delphiniums in pots

Tall delphiniums are not container plants: the roots run deep, the spikes catch the wind and the pot dries out in hours. Dwarf strains such as the Magic Fountains Series will grow in a tub at least 50 cm across and deep, one plant to a tub, in loam-based compost with the 4-4-4 mixed through. Water daily in summer, stand the tub out of the wind and still put in a cane. Raise it on feet in winter so the crown does not sit wet, and expect to replace or replant into the border after two or three years.

Delphiniums: common questions

Do delphiniums come back every year?

Yes, delphiniums are hardy perennials that die down in autumn and regrow each spring. They are not always long-lived, though: seed-raised strains often fade after three or four years, and any delphinium can be lost to slugs eating the shoots or to winter wet rotting the crown. Dividing or taking basal cuttings every three to four years keeps them going.

Are delphiniums poisonous to dogs and cats?

Yes, all parts of a delphinium are poisonous if eaten, to dogs, cats, horses and people. Plant them away from pets that chew plants, and contact a vet if any is eaten. The sap can irritate skin, so wear gloves when cutting back or taking cuttings.

When should I cut back delphiniums?

Cut back twice: once after the first flowering in July, and again in November. In July, cut each finished spike down to ground level, then feed and water, and new shoots flower in September. In November, cut every stem to the ground and clear the debris so slugs have nowhere to overwinter.

Sources

Growing information on this page was checked against these references in November 2026. Feeding rates are Dr Forest label rates.