Bulb

How to grow lilies

Lilium cultivars (Asiatic, Oriental, Trumpet)

Plant lily bulbs in October and November or in February and March, 15 to 20 cm deep, in free-draining, humus-rich soil with the flowers in sun and the roots shaded. Drainage decides whether the bulbs survive winter. Soil type decides which lilies to grow: Asiatic and trumpet lilies accept most soils, while Orientals need acid soil or ericaceous compost. From late March, check weekly for red lily beetle.

Hardiness
Fully hardy
Position
Sun, with the roots shaded
Soil
Free-draining, humus-rich
Ideal pH
5.5 to 7.0
Water
Moderate, never waterlogged
Feeding
Moderate feeder

Sowing and planting lilies

WhenPlant Oct to Nov or Feb to Mar; flowers Jun to Aug by type

Starting off

Plant plump, fresh bulbs Oct to Nov or Feb to Mar at 15 to 20 cm, roots spread over grit; never let them dry out before planting. Propagate by bulb scales snapped off in Aug and kept in moist vermiculite at 20 °C until bulblets form in 6 to 8 weeks, or by stem bulbils on tiger lilies collected in Aug. Divide clumps in Oct every 3 to 4 years.

Spacing and planting

Plant 20 to 30 cm apart in groups of three; set bulbs 15 to 20 cm deep, three times their height, on a 5 cm grit layer, except L. candidum at 2 to 3 cm. Fine in a 30 cm pot, three bulbs, in loam-based ericaceous compost for Orientals.

Varieties worth growing

Lilium regale
The regal lily: white trumpets flushed pink outside, heavily scented, in July. Tolerates lime, comes back reliably and is the easiest scented lily for a border.
'Stargazer'
Oriental with upward-facing crimson and white flowers and a rich scent in August. Needs acid soil, so it is usually grown in a pot of ericaceous compost.
Lilium martagon
Turk's cap lily with tiers of small, recurved pink-purple flowers in June. One of the few lilies for light shade and limy soil, and it will naturalise under trees.
'Landini'
Asiatic lily in deep maroon-black, about 1 m tall, flowering in June. Unscented, which suits anyone who finds lily perfume too strong, and easy in any drained soil.
Lilium lancifolium 'Splendens'
Tiger lily: orange, black-spotted turk's caps in August and September. Vigorous, and easy to increase from the bulbils on its stems. Keep it away from other lilies, as it can carry virus without symptoms.

Lilies month by month

Timings are for central England. Allow two weeks later in the north and on cold, heavy soil.

  1. January

    Nothing to do. Keep pots sheltered from heavy rain.

  2. February

    Plant bulbs in pots and, if the soil is workable, in the ground.

  3. March

    Plant. Mulch 5 cm deep as shoots emerge. Start feeding. Begin beetle checks late in the month.

  4. April

    Check for lily beetle weekly. Protect shoots from slugs.

  5. May

    Tie tall types to their canes as stems reach 60 cm. Water pots regularly.

  6. June

    Asiatic and martagon lilies flower. Remove faded flowers, leaving the stem.

  7. July

    Trumpet lilies and L. regale flower. Keep feeding until the flowers open.

  8. August

    Orientals and tiger lilies flower. Collect bulbils; propagate from scales.

  9. September

    Feed once more. Leave the stems standing while they are green.

  10. October

    Cut browned stems to 5 cm. Plant new bulbs. Divide crowded clumps and repot.

  11. November

    Plant, provided the soil is not waterlogged.

  12. December

    Move pots under cover or against a wall, out of the rain.

Feeding lilies

A moderate feeder that needs potash for stem strength and for rebuilding the bulb. Feed from emergence until the flowers open, then lightly until the leaves yellow. Do not lime Oriental lilies.

NNitrogenLow
PPhosphorusModerate
KPotassiumHigh

A potassium-leaning feed from emergence through flowering builds strong stems and bulbs.

Feeding plan

WhenWhatHow much

March, as shoots emerge, beds

Bloom Fertiliser 2-8-4

100 g/m², the bottom of the label range, scattered round the shoots and watered in. A group of three bulbs covers about 0.25 m², so 25 g. Repeat once after 6 weeks.

Emergence until the first flowers open, every 2 weeks

Potassium Rich Fertiliser 11% K

0.5 to 1 g per litre of water as a drench: 4.5 to 9 g in a 9 litre can, which covers three or four groups.

After flowering until the leaves yellow, once a month

Potassium Rich Fertiliser 11% K

The same 0.5 to 1 g per litre. This is the feed that builds next year's bulb, so do not skip it.

Pots, emergence until the leaves yellow

Potassium Rich Fertiliser 11% K

0.5 to 1 g per litre of water every 2 weeks until flowering and monthly afterwards, in place of a plain watering. For Orientals in ericaceous compost use rainwater where you can.

Signs to watch

What you seeCauseWhat to do

Leaves yellow between the veins on Orientals in limy soil

Lime-induced iron chlorosis

Ericaceous compost, sulphur, chelated iron

Buds brown and fall in Jun

Dry roots or late frost

Mulch and water deeply

Spindly stems with few buds in an old pot

Bulb exhausted and crowded

Repot in Oct with fresh compost and a high-potash feed

Pests, diseases and problems

What you seeCauseWhat to do

Leaves, buds and flowers eaten; bright red beetles on the plant; orange-red grubs coated in wet black slime under the leaves

Red lily beetle and its larvae, which also attack fritillaries

Check plants at least weekly from late March to September and pick off adults, grubs and the orange eggs under the leaves. Hold a hand or tray beneath first, because the beetles drop to the ground on their backs when disturbed.

Emerging shoots eaten off at soil level in spring

Slugs and snails

Top the planting with 2 cm of sharp grit, check after dark as shoots appear, and use nematodes on beds once the soil is above 5 °C.

Oval brown spots on leaves in a wet summer; leaves wither from the bottom of the stem up

Lily disease, a botrytis that spreads in warm, wet weather

Remove affected leaves, clear all dead stems and debris in autumn, and space plants for air. The bulb is not infected and usually grows cleanly the next year.

Leaves mottled or streaked pale green, flowers distorted or fail to open, plants decline

Virus spread by aphids

Dig up and bin affected plants, bulbs included. Deal with aphids early, and do not grow tiger lilies or tulips beside other lilies.

Bulbs fail to come up; when dug they are soft and brown from the base

Bulb rot in wet or heavy soil

Plant on a 5 cm layer of grit, or in raised beds or pots on heavy ground. Buy plump, firm bulbs and plant them promptly.

Pot-grown lilies wilt and topple; roots gone and white grubs in the compost

Vine weevil grubs

Water nematodes into the pot in late August or September. Repot in October, picking out any grubs.

Pruning

Pruning and care

Stake tall Oriental and Trumpet types with a cane at planting to avoid spearing the bulb; tie as the stem reaches 60 cm. Deadhead but leave the stem until it browns in Oct, then cut to 5 cm. Mulch 5 cm in spring to shade roots; divide crowded clumps in Oct. Hardy, but move pots under cover from Dec rain.

Good to knowPlant deep in autumn or spring. Oriental types need acid soil.

Growing lilies in pots

Lilies are very good in pots, and it is the simplest way to grow Orientals on limy soil. Plant three bulbs in a pot 30 cm wide and at least 30 cm deep, with 10 cm of compost beneath them and 15 cm above. Use loam-based compost with a fifth of grit for Asiatics and trumpets, and loam-based ericaceous compost for Orientals. Push in canes at planting so the bulbs are not speared later. Keep the compost moist but never wet, shade the pot itself if you can, and move it out of winter rain. Repot in fresh compost every second October.

Lilies: common questions

Are lilies poisonous to cats?

Yes, true lilies (Lilium) are highly toxic to cats. Every part is dangerous, including the pollen, which a cat can pick up on its coat and swallow when grooming, and even small amounts can cause kidney failure. If you have cats, it is safest not to grow lilies or bring them indoors as cut flowers, and to contact a vet at once if you suspect contact.

How do I get rid of red lily beetle?

Hand picking is the most effective organic control. From late March, check plants at least once a week, crush the red adults, and wipe off the orange eggs and slime-covered grubs from the undersides of the leaves. Catch the adults from below, as they drop when disturbed. Growing lilies in pots near the house makes checking far easier.

Do lilies come back every year?

Yes, lilies are hardy perennial bulbs that return for many years in well-drained soil. To keep them flowering, deadhead but leave the stem and leaves until they brown in autumn, feed after flowering, and divide crowded clumps every three to four years in October. Bulbs lost over winter have usually rotted in wet soil.

Sources

Growing information on this page was checked against these references in November 2026. Feeding rates are Dr Forest label rates.