Architectural foliage

How to grow phormium (New Zealand flax)

Phormium tenax / P. cookianum

Plant phormium in April or May in full sun and free-draining soil. The plain green and bronze forms of Phormium tenax are tough in most of the UK and stand salt wind; the coloured and striped hybrids are less hardy and suffer in cold, wet winters, so give them shelter or a pot. Winter wet at the crown does more harm than cold alone, and feeding should be light.

Hardiness
Frost-hardy; variegated types tender in cold, wet winters
Position
Full sun
Soil
Fertile, free-draining; coastal-tolerant
Ideal pH
6.0 to 7.5
Water
Low
Feeding
Light feeder

Sowing and planting phormium (New Zealand flax)

WhenPlant Apr to May; flowers Jul to Aug on mature plants; tidy Apr

Starting off

Plant pot-grown stock Apr to May so it roots before winter; it is never sold bare-root. Propagate by division in Apr, levering the clump apart with two forks and replanting fans with roots attached, each with 3 to 5 leaves cut back by half; coloured hybrids must be divided, as seed does not come true. P. tenax seed sown at 18°C in Mar germinates slowly and erratically, sometimes taking many months.

Spacing and planting

P. tenax reaches 2 to 3 m tall by 2 m wide with 4 m flower spikes; P. cookianum and most coloured hybrids ('Jester', 'Yellow Wave'; 'Sundowner' is taller, to 2 m) 1 to 1.5 m by 1 to 1.5 m; dwarf 'Bronze Baby' 60 cm. Plant 1 to 1.5 m apart, in a hole twice the pot width with grit on heavy soil and the crown level with the surface. The coloured hybrids are ideal in a 45 to 60 cm pot of loam-based compost with grit, which also lets them be moved to shelter.

Varieties worth growing

Phormium tenax
The plain grey-green species and the hardiest: 2 to 3 m of upright sword leaves for a windbreak, a seaside garden or a bold full stop.
P. tenax Purpureum Group
Bronze-purple leaves on a plant nearly as tough as the green species. The safe choice for colour in a cold garden.
P. 'Yellow Wave'
Arching yellow leaves edged green, about 1 m. One of the more dependable variegated hybrids, and it keeps its colour in light shade.
P. 'Sundowner'
Upright bronze-green leaves with wide pink and cream margins, to 2 m. Striking, but needs shelter and winter protection inland.
P. 'Bronze Baby'
A dwarf at about 60 cm with stiff bronze leaves; the easiest to keep in a pot long term and to move under cover.

Month by month

Timings are for central England. Allow two weeks later in the north and on cold, heavy soil.

  1. January

    Nothing to do. Keep fleece on coloured forms in freezing spells.

  2. February

    Nothing to do. Leave frost-damaged leaves on for now.

  3. March

    Sow P. tenax seed indoors at 18°C. Remove winter wrapping in mild weather at the end of the month.

  4. April

    Tidy: cut dead and tattered leaves out at the base. Plant, divide and give a light feed.

  5. May

    Last month to plant. Water new plants weekly in dry weather.

  6. June

    Water pots. Check leaf bases for mealybug.

  7. July

    Mature plants send up flower spikes. Water pots in hot spells.

  8. August

    Flowering continues. No feeding from now on.

  9. September

    Cut finished flower spikes at the base, or leave the seed pods for effect.

  10. October

    Stand pots on feet. Move potted coloured hybrids to a sheltered wall.

  11. November

    Mulch round the crown, not over it, with 10 cm of bark. Have fleece ready.

  12. December

    Tie leaves up loosely and wrap coloured forms when below -5°C is forecast.

Feeding phormium (New Zealand flax)

A light feeder that gets by on almost nothing in the ground. One small balanced feed in April is the most it needs; more makes the leaves soft, floppy and less hardy. Never feed after midsummer.

NNitrogenLow
PPhosphorusLow
KPotassiumModerate

Low, a light spring feed; over-feeding softens the leaves.

Feeding plan

WhenWhatHow much

April or May, at planting

Garden compost

A spadeful in the backfill on sandy soil; on heavy soil add grit instead. No fertiliser in the hole.

April, plants in the ground

All Purpose Fertiliser 4-4-4

50 g/m², half the label rate of 100 g/m²: one handful scattered round each plant and watered in. Once a year, and skip it on fertile soil.

April, pots

All Purpose Fertiliser 4-4-4

2 g per litre of compost, the bottom of the label range, on the surface and watered in: about 80 g for a 45 cm pot holding roughly 40 litres. Once.

May, after a hard winter

Seaweed Extract Powder

1 g per litre of water as a drench (10 g in a 10 litre can), weekly for 2 to 3 weeks to bring a frost-damaged plant round, then stop.

Signs to watch

What you seeCauseWhat to do

Soft, floppy leaves that bend in the middle

Excess nitrogen or rich soil

No feeding, lean gritty ground, full sun

Coloured hybrids fading to green

Shade or reversion

Full sun, cut out green fans at the base

Older leaves yellow between the veins in a pot

Magnesium short

Epsom salts drench

Pests, diseases and problems

What you seeCauseWhat to do

White waxy fluff deep in the folded leaf bases, leaves yellowing and dull

Phormium mealybug, which hides where sprays and predators cannot reach

Cut affected fans out at the base and bin them; a badly infested plant is best removed. Part the leaf bases and check before buying, as it nearly always arrives on new stock.

Leaves folded over, grey and mushy at the base after a hard frost

Frost damage, worst on coloured hybrids and in wet soil

Leave until April, then cut damaged leaves out at the base. Wait until June before digging up a plant that looks dead; new fans often come from the rhizome.

The centre of the fan rots and pulls out

Crown rot from water standing in the crown or at the roots over winter

Plant on a slight mound with grit on heavy soil, keep mulch off the crown itself, and stand pots on feet from October.

Brown or reddish spots and streaks on the leaves

Fungal leaf spot, encouraged by cold, wet weather and crowded fans

Cut marked leaves out at the base in April and thin old clumps by division so air moves through.

Leaf tips brown and split

Wind, or drought in a pot

Remove whole leaves at the base rather than trimming tips. Water pots through summer and move them out of wind tunnels between buildings.

Pruning

Pruning and care

Tidy in Apr by cutting dead and tattered outer leaves right out at the base with a sharp knife, never shortening live leaves, which leaves ugly brown tips; cut the flower spikes at the base after flowering in Sep. In cold, wet winters tie the leaves up loosely in a column and wrap the plant with fleece or hessian below −5°C, especially coloured and variegated types; mulch the crown 10 cm with bark

Good to knowBold evergreen sword leaves; remove tatty outer leaves at the base. Hardier in free-draining soil.

Growing in pots

The coloured hybrids are often better in a pot than in the ground, because the pot gives sharp drainage and can be moved. Use a 45 to 60 cm pot of loam-based compost with a quarter by volume of grit, in full sun. Water well in summer; phormiums in pots are thirstier than their leathery leaves suggest and the tips brown if they dry out. From October stand the pot on feet against a sheltered wall, and in a hard frost wrap the pot as well as the plant, since the roots are more exposed than they would be in the ground. Divide and repot in April when the fans press against the sides, usually every three to four years.

Common questions

Are phormiums hardy in the UK?

The green and bronze forms of Phormium tenax are hardy through most UK winters, taking roughly -10°C in well-drained soil. The pink, red and yellow striped hybrids are less tough and can be badly damaged below about -5°C, especially in wet ground. Inland and in the north, grow those in a sheltered spot or a pot and wrap them in hard frost.

How do you cut back a phormium that is too big?

Remove whole leaves and whole fans at the base in April; do not shorten the leaves, because cut ends stay brown and never regrow. To reduce the size of the clump properly, lift it in April and divide it, replanting a smaller piece. A phormium cannot be kept small by trimming, so choose a cultivar that fits the space.

Why are my phormium leaves drooping?

Frost damage is the commonest cause in spring: the leaves fold where the base has been frozen and they will not straighten. In summer, drooping usually means a dry pot, shade, or soft growth from too much feed. Cut folded leaves out at the base in April, water pots properly and keep feeding light.

Sources

Growing information on this page was checked against these references in November 2026. Feeding rates are Dr Forest label rates.