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Dr Forest Plant Soap (potassium soft soap)
Washing-up liquid or household detergent
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Dr Forest Plant Soap is a potassium soap for plants: a soft soap concentrate that dilutes into water to wash dust, grime, honeydew residue and hard-water scale off leaves. It is a true soap, saponified from oils with a potassium alkali, rather than a synthetic detergent, so it lathers softly, rinses clean and breaks down fully in soil and water. The base oil is British cold-pressed rapeseed, blended with organic castor oil, organic coconut oil and insect larvae oil, and made from scratch in small batches in Stockport, Greater Manchester.
Use it as a routine leaf wash, a heavier wash for built-up deposits, an emulsifier for mixing horticultural oils into water, and a biodegradable cleaner for pots, tools and greenhouse glass. It is a hygienic plant wash and leaf cleaner.
Every batch is saponified by hand at the Dr Forest workshop in Stockport, Greater Manchester, from British rapeseed and organic castor and coconut oils, and bottled in recycled packaging. If you have been using washing-up liquid on your plants, read why washing-up liquid fails as a wetting agent first; the same chemistry applies to leaf washing. Made by Growers. Backed by Science.
Soap is what you get when a fat or oil reacts with a strong alkali. Use sodium (NaOH) and the result is a hard bar. Use potassium (KOH) and the result is a soft, water-soluble soap that stays liquid at room temperature and dilutes into a sprayable solution without heating or grating. That is the whole reason horticultural soaps have always been potassium soaps. The reaction also releases glycerine, which stays in the concentrate and softens the lather.
A soap molecule has a fatty acid tail that sits in oil and grease, and a charged head that sits in water. Diluted on a leaf, the tails bury themselves in whatever film is sitting on the surface, the heads face outward into the water, and the deposit lifts away with the rinse. The same behaviour is what lets this soap act as an emulsifier: add oil to a soap solution and the molecules wrap each droplet so it stays dispersed rather than floating back to the top. If you want the broader picture on surfactants, wetting agent, surfactant or adjuvant: the difference covers it.
| Oil | Main fatty acid | Job in the soap |
|---|---|---|
| British cold-pressed rapeseed (Brassica napus) | Oleic acid, ~63% (with ~17% linoleic, ~7% alpha-linolenic) | Mild, conditioning base; the character of the wash |
| Organic castor (Ricinus communis) | Ricinoleic acid, ~90% | Dense, stable foam that clings to the leaf |
| Organic coconut (Cocos nucifera) | Lauric acid, 45–53% | Highly soluble, fast-cleaning soap molecules |
| Insect larvae oil (Hermetia illucens) | Lauric acid, roughly a third to a half | Reinforces the coconut fraction; a circular-economy fat |
Chain length decides how a soap behaves. Short and medium chains (lauric, C12; myristic, C14) make soaps that dissolve fast and clean hard. Longer, unsaturated chains (oleic, C18:1) make gentler soaps with a softer lather. A coconut-only soap would clean aggressively and could dry the leaf surface; a rapeseed-only soap would be mild but thin. Blending the four gives a soap that spans C12 to C18, cleans properly at 6 to 10 ml per litre and still reads as gentle on foliage. Cold-pressing the rapeseed, rather than refining it, keeps its tocopherols and carotenoids in the oil [1].
Hirano, Kiyota and Aiga (1995, Environmental Pollution) dusted cucumber and kidney bean leaves and measured the physical consequences: the particle layer shades the leaf and interferes with the stomata, and photosynthesis drops [2]. Shah and colleagues (2018, Environmental Science and Pollution Research) found roadside dust significantly reduced chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b and carotenoid levels in three ornamental species, with the loss worst at the highest dust dose [3]. Washing the film off is the direct fix.
Every leaf carries an epicuticular wax layer that slows water loss. Tamura, Knoche and Bukovac (2001, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry) showed that surfactants can solubilise that wax [4]. Any surfactant will do it if you use enough, which is the case against guessing with washing-up liquid. A soap with a stated dilution range, built on a mild oleic base, is the way to clean the surface without taking the wax with it.
Rapeseed oil runs 46 to 66% oleic acid with 13 to 41% linoleic and roughly 8 to 15% alpha-linolenic, and cold pressing preserves the vitamin E, flavonoids and carotenoids that refining strips out [1]. The British cold-pressed oil used here sits at around 63% oleic. Saponified with KOH, that profile gives a soft, conditioning soap that can be used weekly on foliage.
Castor oil is about 90% ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid found in almost no other oil, and it is the reason the lather is dense and stays put on a leaf rather than running straight off [5]. Coconut oil is 45 to 53% lauric acid [6], which saponifies into short, highly soluble molecules that lift grease and honeydew quickly. Contact time from the castor, cleaning power from the coconut.
Black soldier fly larvae are reared on organic waste and their fat is dominated by lauric acid: 28 to 37% in one recent extraction study [7], and from 32% up to 76% across substrates in a wider review, with myristic, palmitic and oleic acids making up most of the rest [8]. It reinforces the coconut fraction and comes from a waste stream rather than a plantation. It does mean this soap is not vegan; that is stated plainly rather than hidden.
Calcium and magnesium ions in hard tap water swap places with the potassium on the soap molecule and form insoluble calcium and magnesium fatty-acid salts, the same stuff that rings a bath. The solution goes cloudy, the lather collapses and a white film can be left on the leaf. Rainwater or filtered water avoids the problem entirely; with hard tap water, use the top of the dilution range and agitate well.
Fatty acid figures describe the published composition of each oil class; the blend proportions in this product are not published.
This is a natural soap concentrate and some separation between uses is normal, not a defect. Shake the bottle vigorously before measuring so every dose is the same strength.
Mix with rainwater, filtered or dechlorinated water. Hard water reacts with soap, goes cloudy and loses its lather; if hard tap water is all you have, use the higher end of the dilution range and agitate thoroughly. Spray in early morning or evening: cooler air and higher humidity extend contact time, and wet foliage in direct sun can scorch temporarily.
The standard dilution for regular leaf cleaning on all plants. Gives a light, even lather that lifts dust, grime and surface deposits. Spray over the whole plant, leaf undersides included. The rapeseed base is mild enough for weekly use on all foliage types.
For plants with heavy build-up: visible honeydew residue, hard-water scale, or thick dust and grime. The denser lather has more cleaning power. Apply, let the foam sit for a few minutes, then rinse or wipe heavily soiled foliage.
Add the soap to the water first and agitate to a lather. Then add the horticultural oil while stirring continuously. The soap molecules surround and disperse the oil droplets into a stable emulsion that stays evenly mixed while you spray.
A gentle wash for plants kept under cover, where they pick up household dust, cooking residue and airborne particles. Spray and wipe the leaves gently with a soft cloth. No leaf-shine film, just a properly clean surface reflecting light as it should.
Cleans secateurs, propagation trays, seed trays, pots and greenhouse benches. A biodegradable, residue-free alternative to synthetic cleaners, and worth doing at the start and end of the growing season as general horticultural hygiene.
Washes greenhouse glass, polytunnel covers, cold frames and propagator lids. Removes algae build-up, mineral deposits and atmospheric grime that cut light transmission. Fully biodegradable, so runoff poses no risk to the plants or soil beneath.
| Situation | Rate | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Maintenance leaf wash | 6–10 ml per litre of soft water | Every 1–2 weeks |
| Heavy-duty wash | 20–30 ml per litre of soft water | As needed |
| Oil emulsifier | 5–10 ml per litre | Each mix |
| Leaf shine (plants under cover) | 6 ml per litre of soft water | Every 2–4 weeks |
| Tools, pots and surfaces | 15–20 ml per litre | As needed |
| Greenhouse glass and polytunnels | 20 ml per litre | Seasonally |
Clean foliage takes a foliar feed more evenly. Wash, let the plant dry, then follow with Organic Seaweed Extract Powder as a foliar spray or Fulvic Acid Powder as a foliar feed for the best uptake. When you are mixing horticultural oils, this soap does the emulsifying and the Natural Wetting Agent improves coverage and spread across the leaf. The rest of the range is in plant soaps and wetting agents.
Keep the lid on, in a cool place out of direct sunlight. There is no expiry date: a true soap concentrate is inherently stable. Some separation over time is normal; shake before use. Keep out of reach of children and pets, as with any concentrate.
Yes, if it's a plant soap at the right strength. Mix 6–10 ml of this soap per litre of soft water or rainwater and wash or mist the leaves every one to two weeks to lift dust, grime and sticky residue. Spray early in the morning or in the evening, not in strong sun, and test a few leaves first on anything delicate. Washing-up liquid is a poor stand-in: it's a synthetic detergent with fragrance and dye and no plant rate on the bottle. Rinse edible crops before eating.
Here. This potassium soft soap comes in 500 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre bottles and is posted to any UK address. Look for three things whichever soap you buy: it should be a potassium soap (it stays liquid and dissolves easily), it should be made from mild oils, and it should print a plant dilution rate on the label. Ours is made from British cold-pressed rapeseed, castor, coconut and insect larvae oils and is diluted at 6–10 ml per litre of soft water for a routine leaf wash.
A potassium soap made from mild oils, with a plant dilution rate printed on the bottle. Potassium soaps stay liquid and dissolve readily in water, which makes them easy to dose and rinse. Mild oils matter because harsh, short-chain soaps are harder on leaves. This one blends British cold-pressed rapeseed (around 63% oleic acid, which makes a gentle soap) with castor, coconut and insect larvae oils, and it cleans properly at 6–10 ml per litre. Avoid detergents and anything perfumed or coloured.
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