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Organic Tomato Fertiliser 3-4-6

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How to apply
  • Twice the potassium to nitrogen, every 2–4 weeks
  • 3-4-6 with Ca, Mg, S and traces built in
  • Dry bag feed for pots, bags, borders and allotments

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How Organic Tomato Fertiliser 3-4-6 compares

Full guide and science

Dr Forest Tomato Feed 3-4-6: dry, slow release

  • NPK plus calcium, magnesium, sulphur and trace elements from 15 ingredients
  • Biochar gives soil microbes somewhere to live
  • Breaks down over weeks: top-dress every 3 weeks

Typical liquid tomato feed: soluble, weekly

  • Mainly N, P and K, sometimes magnesium; calcium is rarely in the bottle
  • Available at once, and just as quickly washed through by heavy watering
  • Adds nothing to soil structure; salts can build up in grow bags over a season
Made by Growers · Backed by Science

Tomato feed 3-4-6, made with organic ingredients and blended for flavour

NPK 3-4-6 15 Named Ingredients High Potash · K:N 2:1 Slow Release Full Ingredient Transparency Handcrafted in Stockport

Tomato feed 3-4-6 from Dr Forest is a slow-release bag for flavour and yield, not a weekly liquid tomato feed. Potassium helps move sugars from the leaves into swelling fruit, and holding nitrogen lower discourages the plant from putting that effort into leaf. It is a dry, milled plant food for tomato plants in pots, grow bags, borders and allotment beds, blended by hand in Stockport from 15 named ingredients: plant meals, Scottish seaweed and British biochar, with Yorkshire polyhalite and other minerals. Made with organic ingredients.

A liquid tomato feed goes on every week; one dressing of this keeps working for two to four weeks. Alongside the NPK it brings calcium, magnesium, sulphur and trace elements, while most liquid feeds are mainly N, P and K. The 1.5 kg size comes as two 750 g compostable kraft bags; larger sacks run up to 120 kg.

3-4-6NPK ratio
15Named ingredients
2:1Potassium to nitrogen
2–4 wkBetween top-dressings

What this formula does for your tomatoes

  • Potash-led feeding: potassium at twice the nitrogen, mainly as sulphate from polyhalite and sulphate of potash, with no muriate of potash in the mix
  • Colour and aroma: potassium supports lycopene, the red pigment, which with its close relatives breaks down into part of a tomato's aroma
  • Calcium in the base: from polyhalite, phosphorous plant meal, basalt and clay, for a steady background supply to developing fruit
  • Soil life: biochar gives microbes somewhere to live
  • Magnesium from two main sources: a micronised magnesium mineral and polyhalite, for the chlorophyll in every leaf

Dr Forest tomato fertiliser vs a typical liquid tomato feed

Dr Forest Tomato Feed 3-4-6: dry, slow release

  • NPK plus calcium, magnesium, sulphur and trace elements from 15 ingredients
  • Biochar gives soil microbes somewhere to live
  • Breaks down over weeks: top-dress every 3 weeks

Typical liquid tomato feed: soluble, weekly

  • Mainly N, P and K, sometimes magnesium; calcium is rarely in the bottle
  • Available at once, and just as quickly washed through by heavy watering
  • Adds nothing to soil structure; salts can build up in grow bags over a season
Handcrafted in Stockport

Dr Forest makes premium organic fertilisers in Stockport, Greater Manchester, and this tomato fertiliser is blended by hand in small batches, every ingredient listed individually. The name comes from Joe's grandfather, Dr Forrest, a GP in a Lancashire mining town near Preston who kept a back-garden plot for the runner beans he turned into piccalilli for family and friends. For a straight comparison with the best-known bottles, read what is actually in Tomorite: five tomato feeds compared. Made by Growers. Backed by Science.

What's Inside

All 15 ingredients: what they do and why they are in this tomato feed

This is a multi-input blend, with every ingredient listed individually. The polyhalite is mined 1,200 m below the North Sea off North Yorkshire, the seaweed is hand-harvested in Scottish waters, and the biochar is British and fermented before blending.

01K · Ca · Mg · S

Yorkshire polyhalite: North Yorkshire, slow release

One crystal, four nutrients, all as sulphates: 14% K₂O, 17% CaO and 6% MgO plus sulphur. Unlike conventional potash it releases gradually (Das et al., 2026). More in our polyhalite guide.

0250% K₂O

Sulphate of potash (SOP): mineral, fast release

The quick potash: 50% K₂O in sulphate form, which covers the start of each feed while the slower ingredients come on stream. No muriate of potash (potassium chloride) is used anywhere in the formula.

0320.9% Mg

Micronised magnesium mineral: mineral, sustained release

Magnesium sits at the centre of every chlorophyll molecule, so it is tied directly to photosynthesis. Ground to 5 microns at 20.9% Mg. Short supply shows as yellowing between the veins of older leaves; see magnesium deficiency in tomato plants.

0412% N

Nitrogen plant extract: plant-derived, controlled release

A plant protein concentrate that soil microbes break down to plant-available nitrogen. Young plants get what they need to establish without a surge of soluble nitrate.

05P₂O₅ · CaO

Phosphorous plant meal: plant-derived, calcined

A calcined plant meal, not rock phosphate, at around 15% P₂O₅ and 9% CaO: phosphorus for rooting after planting out and for flowering and fruit set, plus a second calcium source.

06Slow N

Rapeseed meal: British, slow release

A high-protein seed meal that releases nitrogen steadily over several weeks as microbes break it down. Nitrogen that arrives gradually is less likely to push soft, leafy growth.

07Trace elements

Scottish seaweed meal: hand-harvested, slow release

Dried, milled seaweed bringing zinc, iron, manganese and boron, plus alginates that help compost hold together and hold water.

08Biostimulant

Seaweed extract: British coastal, biostimulant

Included for its biostimulant compounds: seaweed extracts carry growth-active substances such as cytokinins and betaines (Craigie, 2011).

09Triacontanol

Alfalfa meal: plant-derived, slow release

Slow nitrogen and organic matter. Alfalfa meal is also where the growth-promoting substance triacontanol was identified (Ries et al., 1977).

10Carbon scaffold

British biochar: fermented before blending

Stable, porous carbon that stays in the soil for years. Its pores give microbes somewhere to live, and microbial biomass generally rises after biochar goes in, though why is still not well understood (Lehmann et al., 2011).

11Chelation

Humic acid: mined humate, chelation

Humic substances improve the uptake of some nutrients, nitrate in particular, and help plants acquire iron by holding it in solution (Nardi et al., 2002).

12Silicon

Silica meal: mineral, structural

Plants short of silicon are often structurally weaker (Epstein, 1999), and a cordon carrying five or six heavy trusses needs a strong stem.

13CEC reservoir

Clay minerals: British, permanent exchange capacity

Montmorillonite and illite clays hold potassium, calcium and magnesium on their surfaces and let them go between waterings, a capacity that does not wear out.

14Trace minerals

Volcanic rock dust (basalt): mineral, trace elements

A slow trickle of zinc, iron, copper and manganese, which plants need in small amounts to run their enzyme systems.

15Biostimulant

Herbal mixture: plant-derived, biostimulant

Dried plant material added as a varied food source for the soil microbial community.

Where each nutrient comes from

Nutrient Main sources Smaller contributions
Nitrogen (N) Nitrogen plant extract, rapeseed meal, alfalfa meal Seaweed meal, herbal mixture
Phosphorus (P₂O₅) Phosphorous plant meal Nitrogen plant extract, rapeseed and alfalfa meals, biochar
Potassium (K₂O) Yorkshire polyhalite, sulphate of potash Seaweed, alfalfa meal, nitrogen plant extract, illite clay, basalt
Calcium Yorkshire polyhalite, phosphorous plant meal Basalt, clay minerals, seaweed meal
Magnesium Micronised magnesium mineral, Yorkshire polyhalite Seaweed meal, basalt, montmorillonite clay
Sulphur Yorkshire polyhalite, sulphate of potash Rapeseed meal, seaweed meal
Trace elements Seaweed meal and extract, basalt rock dust Clay minerals, polyhalite
How to Use

How to use this tomato feed: rates, timing and method

Measuring made simple

This product is a milled powder with a bulk density of 1 g/ml, so grams and millilitres are interchangeable. You can measure by weight on a kitchen scale or by volume using a measuring jug or spoon. 3 level teaspoons = 1 tablespoon ≈ 15 ml. For best results, mix with an equal volume of compost before applying.

Step-by-step: containers and grow bags

  1. Prepare your potting mix. Measure 5–10 g per litre of compost: 5 g/L for mixes already containing nutrients, 10 g/L for plain or peat-free compost. Mix thoroughly for at least two minutes to prevent localised hot-spots.
  2. Fill your container and plant. Leave 5 cm headspace for watering. Set the plant at the correct depth and firm gently. If planting into an existing container, mix the fertiliser into the compost before transplanting.
  3. Water in thoroughly. Water until it runs freely from the drainage holes; this starts the slow-release process. Do not allow the pot to dry completely, because organic nutrient release depends on moisture.
  4. Wait 10–14 days before the first top-dress. The initial potting mix dose provides nutrition for the first two to three weeks. Begin top-dressing once plants show new growth.
  5. Top-dress every 3 weeks. Apply 1–3 g per litre of pot volume in a band around the outer rim, 10 cm from the stem. Every 2 weeks is only for peak fruiting, and only if the whole leaf is evenly pale. Lightly scratch into the top 2–3 cm. Water immediately.
  6. Adjust to what the plant tells you. Yellowing between the veins of older leaves is usually magnesium, often from too much potash: ease back, do not add more. Leaves evenly pale all over: move toward 3 g/L. Excessively dark green foliage with few flowers: stretch to every 4 weeks and reduce toward 1 g/L.

Application rate table

Containers & pots

Situation Rate (g = ml) Frequency Notes
Potting mix preparation 5–10 g per litre of compost Once at potting 5 g/L in enriched mixes. 10 g/L in plain or peat-free compost.
Container top-dressing 1–3 g per litre of pot volume Every 3 weeks 1 g/L for established plants. 2–3 g/L for large containers (20 L+) or peak fruiting.

Outdoor beds & raised beds

Situation Rate (g = ml) Frequency Notes
Bed preparation 150–200 g per m² (up to 250 g for depleted soil) Once before planting Fork into the top 10–15 cm. Preparing 2–4 weeks in advance allows nutrients to begin releasing.
Outdoor top-dressing 75–150 g per m² Every 3 weeks 75 g/m² in fertile soil during vegetative growth. 100–150 g/m² during peak fruiting.
Single plant at transplanting 30–45 g per plant Once at planting Mix into the planting hole with an equal volume of soil or compost. 10 cm gap from the stem.
Single plant top-dressing 30–45 g per plant Every 3 weeks Ring around the plant 10–15 cm from the stem. Lightly scratch in. Water in thoroughly.

Seasonal feeding guide

Stage Timing Rate & frequency Goal
Bed preparation / potting mix 2–4 weeks before planting Beds: 150–200 g/m². Pots: 5–10 g/L compost Build a nutrient-rich root zone before the plant arrives
Transplant establishment At planting 30–45 g per plant into the planting hole Localised nutrient boost for rapid rooting
Early vegetative growth 10–14 days after transplanting 75 g/m² or 1 g/L every 3–4 weeks Healthy structure without excessive nitrogen-driven bulk
Active flowering & fruit set First flowers through heavy fruit load 100 g/m² or 2 g/L every 3 weeks Potassium and phosphorus support for flower retention and fruit set
Peak fruit fill Heavy green fruit on all trusses 150 g/m² or 3 g/L every 2 weeks, only if leaves are evenly pale. Otherwise stay at every 3 weeks Maximum demand: sugar loading and lycopene synthesis
Ripening & late season Once fruit begins to colour Lower range or skip; every 3–4 weeks Concentrate sugars and volatiles; ease off nitrogen
Keep the compost moist

Organic nutrient release depends on moisture. Do not allow the pot to dry completely. Water immediately after top-dressing containers, and water single-plant dressings in thoroughly.

Works well combined with…

Use Dr Forest Seaweed Extract Powder as a fortnightly foliar: it adds cytokinins and trace minerals without extra nitrogen. Apply Dr Forest Liquid Gypsum as a root drench if blossom end rot appears mid-season. Use Dr Forest All Purpose Fertiliser 4-4-4 during early vegetative establishment before switching to this formula at first flower.

Growing Guide

Tomato growing guide

Varieties, training, watering and feeding by type now live in our full guide: Best fertiliser for tomatoes (UK). This page stays on the bag: ratio, ingredients, rates and how to use them.

The Science

The science of tomato flavour, and where feeding fits in

A tomato's flavour is the sum of sugars, acids and a large set of volatile compounds you smell rather than taste (Mathieu et al., 2009). Variety matters a great deal: modern commercial varieties carry significantly less of many key flavour chemicals than older heirloom varieties (Tieman et al., 2017), partly because flavour is too genetically complex to breed for easily (Klee & Tieman, 2018).

Why the 3-4-6 ratio works

Potassium's role in moving photoassimilates, the sugars made in the leaves, is one reason it matters for crop quality (Römheld & Kirkby, 2010). In a trial of three potassium levels, tomato lycopene rose in step with potassium supply while yield did not change (Serio et al., 2007). Nitrogen is held back because a tomato given plenty of it grows leaf. The exact 2:1 figure is our formulation choice; the research points that way without fixing a number.

3-4-6NPK ratio
2:1K:N ratio
−13%Fruit nitrate vs chemical feed
+10.8%Lycopene vs chemical feed

Ordinary organic fertilisers vs 100% chemical fertiliser, meta-analysis of 124 studies (Fan et al., 2023): literature figures, not a trial of this product.

Variety sets the ceiling on flavour. Feeding and watering decide how close you get to it.

What makes a tomato taste like a tomato

Compound Made from How
Sugars (fructose, glucose) Photosynthesis in the leaves Carried to the fruit in the phloem, a job potassium supports
6-Methyl-5-hepten-2-one Lycopene Oxidative cleavage of lycopene
Geranylacetone Linear carotenoids Carotenoid cleavage
β-Ionone β-carotene Carotenoid cleavage
Hexanal, (Z)-3-hexenal Linoleic and linolenic acids The 13-lipoxygenase pathway
3-Methylbutanal Leucine, an amino acid Amino acid breakdown

Sources: Mathieu et al. (2009); Römheld & Kirkby (2010). The carotenoid-derived compounds are why colour and aroma travel together.


How organic feeding differs from soluble feed: the mechanisms

01

Nitrogen arrives gradually

Organic nitrogen must be broken down by microbes before roots can use it. Across 124 studies, ordinary organic fertilisers cut fruit nitrate by 13.0% and raised fruit sugar by 10.7% against chemical fertiliser alone (Fan et al., 2023).

02

Colour and aroma come from the same place

Lycopene and related carotenoids are broken down in ripening fruit into aroma compounds such as 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one and geranylacetone (Mathieu et al., 2009). Ordinary organic fertilisers raised lycopene 10.8% against chemical fertiliser (Fan et al., 2023), and in a separate trial lycopene rose with potassium supply (Serio et al., 2007).

03

Calcium depends on water as much as supply

In tomato trials, humid air sent less calcium to the leaves and more to the fruit, a salty root zone cut uptake, and the lowest calcium sat in the tissue where blossom end rot starts (Adams & Ho, 1993). The likely trigger is delivery to fast-expanding cells falling behind demand (Ho & White, 2005).

04

Organic matter builds the soil

Organic fertilisers raised soil organic matter by 24.4% against chemical fertiliser alone, with higher soil nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (Fan et al., 2023).

05

Biochar gives microbes a home

Its pores give soil microbes somewhere to live, and microbial biomass generally rises after it goes in, though why is still not well understood (Lehmann et al., 2011).

06

Biostimulants act on the plant directly

Humic substances improve nutrient uptake and help plants acquire iron (Nardi et al., 2002). Seaweed extracts carry cytokinins and betaines, and the old view that seaweed works mainly through its nutrients is no longer tenable (Craigie, 2011).


Study data: organic feeding and tomato quality

Study Scope Finding
Fan et al. (2023) 124 studies, 2,041 data sets Ordinary organic fertiliser vs 100% chemical fertiliser: nitrate −13.0%, sugar +10.7%, lycopene +10.8%. All organic types: soil organic matter +24.4%
Yang et al. (2023) 313 studies, 353 sites Organic vs inorganic fertiliser: sugars +0.4 to 12%, aroma volatiles +72.1%, disease incidence 45 to 73% lower (a range across studies), yield 5.5% lower with organic alone; organic plus mineral combinations raised yield 12.4%
Serio et al. (2007) Three potassium levels Lycopene rose linearly with potassium; yield unchanged

Scientific references

  1. Adams, P. & Ho, L.C. (1993). Effects of environment on the uptake and distribution of calcium in tomato and on the incidence of blossom-end rot. Plant and Soil, 154, 127–132.
  2. Balzergue, C. et al. (2013). High phosphate reduces host ability to develop arbuscular mycorrhizal symbiosis without affecting root calcium spiking responses to the fungus. Frontiers in Plant Science, 4, 426.
  3. Craigie, J.S. (2011). Seaweed extract stimuli in plant science and agriculture. Journal of Applied Phycology, 23(3), 371–393.
  4. Das, S. et al. (2026). Polyhalite nutrients driving balanced crop nutrition and sustainable agricultural productivity. Discover Soil, 3, 21.
  5. Epstein, E. (1999). Silicon. Annual Review of Plant Physiology and Plant Molecular Biology, 50, 641–664.
  6. Fan, H. et al. (2023). Effects of organic fertilizer supply on soil properties, tomato yield, and fruit quality: a global meta-analysis. Sustainability, 15(3), 2556.
  7. Yang, J., Mattoo, A.K., Liu, Y., Zvomuya, F. and He, H. (2023). Trade-offs of organic and organic-inorganic fertilizer combinations in tomato quality and yield: a global meta-analysis (1992–2021). European Journal of Agronomy 151: 126985. doi:10.1016/j.eja.2023.126985.
  8. Higo, M. et al. (2020). Impact of phosphorus fertilization on tomato growth and arbuscular mycorrhizal fungal communities. Microorganisms, 8(2), 178.
  9. Ho, L.C. & White, P.J. (2005). A cellular hypothesis for the induction of blossom-end rot in tomato fruit. Annals of Botany, 95(4), 571–581.
  10. Klee, H.J. & Tieman, D.M. (2018). The genetics of fruit flavour preferences. Nature Reviews Genetics, 19(6), 347–356.
  11. Lehmann, J. et al. (2011). Biochar effects on soil biota – a review. Soil Biology and Biochemistry, 43(9), 1812–1836.
  12. Mathieu, S. et al. (2009). Flavour compounds in tomato fruits: identification of loci and potential pathways affecting volatile composition. Journal of Experimental Botany, 60(1), 325–337.
  13. Nardi, S. et al. (2002). Physiological effects of humic substances on higher plants. Soil Biology and Biochemistry, 34(11), 1527–1536.
  14. Ries, S.K. et al. (1977). Triacontanol: a new naturally occurring plant growth regulator. Science, 195(4284), 1339–1341.
  15. Römheld, V. & Kirkby, E.A. (2010). Research on potassium in agriculture: needs and prospects. Plant and Soil, 335(1), 155–180.
  16. Serio, F. et al. (2007). Potassium nutrition increases the lycopene content of tomato fruit. Journal of Horticultural Science & Biotechnology, 82(6), 941–945.
  17. Tieman, D. et al. (2017). A chemical genetic roadmap to improved tomato flavor. Science, 355(6323), 391–394.

Figures describe the published literature on these ingredient classes and are not product-specific yield guarantees.

Questions & Answers

Grow bags vs high-K liquid tomato feeds

Most UK grow-bag advice still points at a weekly high-potassium liquid (Tomorite-class bottles). Those feeds push fruiting with K, but the bottle usually carries little or no calcium. In a peat-free bag that is watered hard every day, calcium stays the scarce nutrient: blossom end rot is a transport-and-supply problem, not a potassium shortage.

High-K liquid (Tomorite-class)

  • Weekly dilute feed: NPK on the label, seaweed sometimes added
  • Calcium usually absent from the bottle
  • Salts wash through fast; easy to overdo K and tip magnesium out of balance

This 3-4-6 slow-release bag

  • Base-charge the compost once, then top-dress every few weeks
  • Calcium and magnesium sit in the blend with the potash
  • Made with organic ingredients, blended in Stockport

If you already use a high-K liquid on grow bags, keep watering steady and add a separate calcium source when the bag is unbuffered coir or fruit marks appear. Do not expect the liquid alone to fix blossom end rot. For a bottle-by-bottle read, see Tomorite vs Dr Forest tomato feed compared.

Frequently asked questions about this tomato fertiliser

Before they go in. Mix 5–10 g per litre into the compost for pots and grow bags, or fork 150–200 g per m² into beds 2–4 weeks before planting (up to 250 g for depleted soil). At planting, put 30–45 g into each planting hole, mixed with an equal volume of soil or compost. The first top-dressing goes on 10–14 days after transplanting, once the plant shows new growth.

Every 3 weeks, not weekly. Every 2 weeks only at peak fruiting, and only if the whole leaf is evenly pale. Ease to every 3–4 weeks, or skip, once fruit begins to colour. Yellowing between the veins is magnesium: ease back rather than feeding more often.

Yes, and it is particularly useful there, because peat-free compost usually starts with lower nutrient levels. Use the higher potting mix rate (8–10 g/L) and begin top-dressing after 7–10 days rather than 14. Combining it with a liquid seaweed foliar spray every 2 weeks gives strong results.

Because a tomato given plenty of nitrogen puts it into leaf, often at the expense of flowers and fruit. The 3% N is enough for healthy foliage without that excess. If plants show nitrogen shortage, apply more frequently within the recommended rates rather than adding a high-nitrogen feed on top.

A North Yorkshire mineral supplying potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur in one crystal, as sulphates and without chloride. It releases gradually compared with conventional potash (Das et al., 2026). Our guide to polyhalite vs sulphate of potash compares the two potash sources in this blend.

It covers the supply side, with calcium included to keep a background supply in the root zone. But blossom end rot is mainly a water-supply disorder: calcium reaches the fruit with water, and the rot is thought to start when delivery falls behind (Ho & White, 2005). For severe or recurring cases, supplement with Dr Forest Liquid Gypsum as a root drench every 2–3 weeks once fruit is setting. Remove affected fruit; later trusses usually recover once watering is stabilised.

It works well with them. Use the lower potting rate (5 g/L) initially, apply the inoculant directly to the roots or into the planting hole, and resume normal rates after 3–4 weeks once the fungal networks have formed. The low start is a precaution: high phosphate stopped the partnership forming in laboratory work (Balzergue et al., 2013), though a tomato field trial found no significant effect (Higo et al., 2020). If you need an inoculant, see our Mycorrhizal Fungi Powder.

Yes. Peppers, aubergines and chillies respond well to the same 3-4-6 ratio, and there is a dedicated Chilli & Pepper Fertiliser too. For root veg, brassicas and soft fruit, Dr Forest Fruit & Vegetable Fertiliser 4-5-6 offers a more versatile NPK balance.

Yes. This blend is the slow-release foundation; a liquid seaweed or calcium feed can top up nutrients during peak demand. Avoid replacing the dry base programme with liquid alone.

Yes. Cherry varieties need lighter, less frequent feeding; overfed, they run to leaf. Beefsteaks need the upper end of the range, with extra attention to calcium and even watering, because their large fruit is the most prone to blossom end rot. The Growing Guide tab covers every type.

The biochar gives soil microbes somewhere to live (Lehmann et al., 2011), which helps keep the compost alive enough to break the plant meals down.

Yes. There is no withholding period for edible crops, and it is safe for pets and children once applied and watered in. Keep the bag itself out of their reach.

It's made with organic ingredients: plant meals, seaweed and biochar, blended with mined minerals such as Yorkshire polyhalite.

Cool, dry, out of direct sunlight and sealed between uses; damp wakes the microbes early. It stays effective for at least 18 months. If it clumps, break it up before measuring.

Keep to a potash-led feed rather than switching to something high in nitrogen. This 3-4-6 is built for flowering and fruiting: sulphate of potash gives a quick start and polyhalite carries on releasing, with calcium and magnesium alongside. Top-dress every 3 weeks, or every 2 weeks at peak fruiting if the whole leaf turns evenly pale. If you want a faster lift from first flower, a soluble Bloom Booster 2-10-5 drench sits alongside it.

It'll feed them, but it isn't ideal once they're fruiting. With as much nitrogen as potash, a well-fed tomato puts its energy into foliage at the expense of flowers and fruit. Tomatoes want more potash than nitrogen from first truss onwards, which is why this feed is 3-4-6. A balanced feed is fine for young plants before they flower.

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