How Chilli & Pepper Fertiliser compares
Full guide and scienceDr Forest Chilli & Pepper 3-3.5-7, a dry slow-release blend
- Mixed into compost at potting, then top-dressed every 2–4 weeks
- 7% calcium, 2.3% magnesium and 6.4% sulphur alongside the NPK
- A multi-input blend of 20 named ingredients
- Separate rate bands for each type of pepper
A typical liquid tomato feed used on chillies
- Diluted in the watering can, usually weekly once fruit has set
- High in potash, which suits chillies too
- Soluble, so available at once and easily flushed through a pot
- Usually one dilution for every fruiting crop
Customer highlight
Thanks very much. The aphids aren't enjoying this, we'll see how the greenhouse spider mites do later in the year. Thank you ,good shopping with you. Cheers!!
Editorial highlight from marketplace and store reviews — separate from the full review list below.
Chilli fertiliser 3-3.5-7: twenty ingredients for chillies and sweet peppers
Dr Forest Chilli & Pepper Fertiliser is a slow-release organic chilli fertiliser, NPK 3-3.5-7, for chillies and sweet peppers in pots, grow bags and beds. Chillies flower and fruit from early summer until the first frost, so it carries more than twice as much potash as nitrogen, plus 7% calcium, 2.3% magnesium and 6.4% sulphur. We blend it by hand in Stockport from 20 listed ingredients, including Yorkshire polyhalite and Scottish seaweed.
A dry chilli plant food: mix it into the compost at potting, then top-dress every 2–4 weeks. Sweet peppers take the most, superhots and ornamentals the least. Choose the variety for heat; the feed's job is a healthy plant carrying a full crop through a short British summer.
What this formula does for your chillies and peppers
- Feeds a long fruiting season — quick potash from sulphate of potash and slower potash from polyhalite, for plants that flower and fruit from early summer into October.
- Keeps plants cropping — 3% nitrogen, released as soil life breaks the organic ingredients down.
- Calcium for sound fruit — 7% calcium, mostly from four ingredients. Steady watering does the rest.
- Magnesium from three main sources — quick Epsom salt plus slower magnesium carbonate and polyhalite, for heavily cropping plants late in the season.
- Something for the soil — alfalfa, rapeseed meal, seaweed, insect frass, humic acids and biochar give soil organisms organic matter to work on.
- One bag for every Capsicum — sweet peppers to superhots, each with its own rate band.
Dr Forest Chilli & Pepper vs a liquid tomato feed
Dr Forest Chilli & Pepper 3-3.5-7, a dry slow-release blend
- Mixed into compost at potting, then top-dressed every 2–4 weeks
- 7% calcium, 2.3% magnesium and 6.4% sulphur alongside the NPK
- A multi-input blend of 20 named ingredients
- Separate rate bands for each type of pepper
A typical liquid tomato feed used on chillies
- Diluted in the watering can, usually weekly once fruit has set
- High in potash, which suits chillies too
- Soluble, so available at once and easily flushed through a pot
- Usually one dilution for every fruiting crop
Every batch of this premium organic fertiliser is blended by hand at our workshop in Stockport, Greater Manchester. Dr Forest is named after Joe's grandfather, Dr Forrest, a GP in a Lancashire mining town near Preston who kept a back-garden plot for the runner beans he turned into piccalilli for family and friends. For why we feed the soil as well as the plant, see what is living soil? Made by Growers. Backed by Science.
All 20 ingredients, and what each does for a chilli plant
Four of the twenty make up just over 60% of the blend: nitrogen plant extract (20%), Yorkshire polyhalite (16.5%), phosphorous meal (15%) and gypsum (9%). Most of the calcium comes from four of them, the sulphur from four and the magnesium from three; others, such as the seaweed and clay, add smaller amounts. Figures on each card are for that ingredient alone, not the finished feed.
Nitrogen plant extract — plant protein concentrate, steady release
The main nitrogen source: 12% N, with 3% P₂O₅ and 4% K₂O. Soil organisms release it as available nitrogen over the following weeks, in step with a plant that makes new shoots and flowers all summer.
Yorkshire polyhalite — mined in North Yorkshire, slow release
Potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur in one mineral (14% K₂O, 17% CaO, 6% MgO). In pot trials, less of each leached away than from soluble sulphate salts (Yermiyahu et al., 2017): useful in a chilli pot watered daily. More in our polyhalite guide.
Phosphorous meal — calcined plant meal, moderate release
The largest phosphorus source, at about 15% P₂O₅ and 9% CaO. A chilli keeps flowering on new growth for months, so its phosphorus demand runs all season.
Gypsum (calcium sulphate) — mineral, fast release
23% calcium and 18% sulphur: the largest single calcium source, supplying calcium to fast-expanding fruit without raising soil pH the way lime does.
Sulphate of potash — mineral, fast release
Chloride-free potash with 18% sulphur: the quick potassium, next to the slower potassium in polyhalite. See polyhalite vs sulphate of potash.
Alfalfa meal — dried lucerne, slow release
Adds nitrogen and organic matter as it breaks down. Alfalfa is where triacontanol's growth-regulating activity was first found (Naeem et al., 2012), though how much reaches a plant from meal in the soil is unknown. More in what is alfalfa meal?
Epsom salt (magnesium sulphate) — mineral, fast release
17.7% magnesium and 14% sulphur, fully soluble: the quickest of the three main magnesium sources, for pot-grown chillies that run short late in the summer.
Scottish seaweed meal — hand-harvested, slow release
Potassium and a broad spread of trace elements, released slowly: suited to a crop that fruits from midsummer to the first frost.
Magnesium carbonate — mineral, moderate release
20.7% magnesium, dissolving more slowly than Epsom salt and faster than polyhalite.
Micronised rock phosphate — mineral, slow reserve
31% P₂O₅ and 46% CaO. It dissolves slowly, more so in neutral or alkaline soil: a reserve for plants still flowering in September.
Humic and fulvic acids — soil organic acids
Small humic molecules can raise root uptake of some nutrients, nitrate especially, and show hormone-like activity, depending on source and dose (Nardi et al., 2002). Fulvic acids hold trace metals in forms roots can use.
Fermented biochar — British, long-lasting
Porous, stable carbon. In most studies reviewed, soil microbial biomass rose after biochar went in, though results depend heavily on the biochar itself (Lehmann et al., 2011).
Rapeseed meal — British, slow release
The pressed meal left after oil extraction. It releases nitrogen gradually as soil microbes break it down.
Mealworm frass — sustainably reared, slow release
Droppings and shed skins from mealworm rearing: nitrogen, organic matter and chitin, a natural polymer that some soil microbes feed on.
Clay minerals (montmorillonite and illite) — British, permanent
Clay holds potassium, calcium and magnesium on its surfaces and releases them between feeds: a small, permanent reserve in a pot.
Seaweed extract — British coastal, biostimulant
Carries natural growth regulators such as cytokinins and auxins, plus betaines (Craigie, 2011). See benefits of seaweed fertiliser.
Volcanic rock dust (basalt) — mineral, slow release
Iron, manganese, zinc and copper among other trace elements. It weathers slowly: a long-term trace-element top-up.
EM-1 microorganisms — living culture
Bacteria, yeasts, actinomycetes and lactic acid bacteria. The field evidence is thin: in a four-year Swiss trial, EM's yield effects came from the nutrients in the bokashi it was applied with (Mayer et al., 2010). Think of it as a small extra.
Silica meal — mineral, structural
Silicon, which plants lay down in their cell walls. It is classed as beneficial rather than essential: a supporting ingredient.
Herbal mixture — comfrey, nettle, yarrow and chamomile
Traditional garden-feed herbs. Comfrey leaf is potassium-rich and breaks down quickly; nettle brings iron and silica.
How to use chilli fertiliser: rates, timing and method
Start feeding 10–14 days after transplanting once plants show new growth. Apply every 2–3 weeks during active growth, then stretch to every 3–4 weeks as fruit matures. Superhots often prefer lighter feeding for maximum heat, so observe your plants and adjust.
Step-by-step: pots, containers and grow bags
- Mix into the compost before planting. 5–10g per litre of compost, mixed through the full volume: 5g/L if you are using a mycorrhizal fungi inoculant (lower P avoids suppressing colonisation), 10g/L in plain compost.
- Top-dress once growth starts. Start feeding 10–14 days after transplanting, once plants show new growth: 1–3g per litre of pot volume every 2–4 weeks, mixed first with an equal volume of compost.
- Stretch the interval as fruit ripens. Every 2–3 weeks during active growth, every 3–4 weeks as fruit matures.
- Ease off at the end. Stop or reduce feeding in the last 4–6 weeks before final harvest if plants are performing well.
Application rate tables
Containers and pots
| Situation | Rate | Frequency | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Potting mix preparation | 5–10g per litre of compost | Once, mixed through the full volume before planting | 5g/L if using a mycorrhizal fungi inoculant (lower P avoids suppressing colonisation). 10g/L in plain compost. |
| Container top-dressing | 1–3g per litre of pot volume | Every 2–4 weeks | 1g/L for mild varieties and early-season maintenance. 2g/L for standard feeding. 3g/L during peak fruiting for maximum heat, flavour and aroma. |
Beds, raised beds and greenhouse beds
| Situation | Rate | Frequency | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed preparation | 100–200g per m² | Once, before planting or at transplanting. Work into the top 10–15cm. | 100g/m² for fertile soil or mild varieties. 150g/m² for average garden soil, the standard rate for good heat and flavour. 200g/m² for maximum heat, aroma and volatile production: a strong potassium and sulphur foundation for the season. |
| Single plant at transplanting | 18–40g per plant (1.25–3 tablespoons) | Once. Mix into the soil around each plant. | Leave a 10cm gap between the stem and the fertiliser ring. 18–20g for small transplants or superhots. 25–30g for standard varieties. 35–40g for large established plants or when pushing maximum flavour in sweet peppers. |
| Rows and beds, top-dressing | 100–160g per metre of row | Every 2–4 weeks: every 2–3 weeks during active vegetative growth, stretching to every 3–4 weeks once fruit is setting and ripening | 100g/m for superhots and early-season maintenance. 120g/m for standard feeding. 160g/m during peak fruiting, for maximum aroma and heat. Spread in a narrow band 10–15cm from stems, scratch in lightly, water well. |
| Single plants in the ground or raised beds, top-dressing | 15–40g per plant (1–3 tablespoons) | Every 2–4 weeks | 15–20g for superhots and ornamentals. 25–30g for standard hot and mild varieties. 35–40g for sweet peppers and when pushing maximum flavour and aroma. Sprinkle in a ring 10–15cm from the stem, incorporate lightly, water in. |
3 level teaspoons = 1 tablespoon ≈ 15g. Mix the fertiliser with an equal volume of compost before application: it reduces dust and coats the granules in microbe-rich compost. More technique in how to top dress like a pro.
Seasonal feeding guide
| Stage | Timing | Rate and frequency | Goal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seedlings | March, once they have 4 true leaves | Begin feeding seedlings at quarter strength | Steady early growth |
| Planting | April under glass; late May, after the last frost, outdoors | Containers 5–10g per litre of compost; beds 100–200g per m²; single plants 18–40g | A base charge |
| Establishment | 10–14 days after transplanting, once plants show new growth | Begin the full feeding programme | Growth before fruit |
| Active growth and fruit set | May to July | Every 2–3 weeks; June–July is the peak feeding period, at the upper end | Flowers and fruit set |
| Ripening | From August | Stretch the interval to every 3–4 weeks | Ripen the crop |
| Final weeks | Last 4–6 weeks before final harvest | Stop or reduce feeding if plants are performing well | Finish the season |
Stop or reduce feeding in the last 4–6 weeks before final harvest if plants are performing well. Ease off watering slightly when fruit is ripening. Mild water stress concentrates capsaicin for hotter, bolder peppers without cracking or splitting.
Use Dr Forest Seaweed Powder as a fortnightly foliar. Apply Dr Forest Liquid Gypsum every 2–4 weeks for additional calcium. Apply mycorrhizal fungi at planting for improved nutrient uptake, with the 5g/L compost rate above. Follow each product's own label for its rate.
Storage
Cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. Keep sealed between uses. Effective for at least 18 months.
Growing chillies in the UK: types of chilli pepper, watering and feeding by type
A chilli is a tropical perennial asked to crop in a British summer, so most of the craft is buying it time: sow early with bottom heat, then give plants the warmest, brightest spot you have. Watch night temperatures more than the calendar: 10°C nights instead of 15°C cut flowers, fruit and yield in most of 39 pepper lines tested (Rajametov et al., 2021).
Types of chilli pepper: annuum and chinense
Capsicum annuum — sweet peppers, jalapeños, cayennes, most ornamentals
- Quickest to fruit, and the best bet outdoors in a UK summer
- Sweet peppers, jalapeño, poblano, Hungarian hot wax, Padron, cayenne and Thai types; compact 'Apache' suits a windowsill pot
Capsicum chinense — habaneros, Scotch bonnets and the superhots
- Slow to germinate and slow to ripen; they want a long, warm season under glass
- Habanero, Scotch bonnet, 'Carolina Reaper', 'Trinidad Scorpion', 'Bhut Jolokia', 'Komodo Dragon' and the Dorset-bred 'Dorset Naga'
Feeding adjustments by variety type
Sweet peppers — bell, Ramiro, Marconi, 'Jimmy Nardello', Padron
Full-strength feeding, kept up through fruiting. Big, fast-growing fruit need the most calcium, so keep the watering even.
Mild–medium chillies — jalapeño, poblano, Anaheim, Hungarian wax, serrano
Standard rates, standard timing. The chillies most likely to crop outdoors in a good British summer.
Hot chillies — Scotch bonnet, habanero, bird's eye, cayenne, Thai
Lighter feeding at a longer interval. Scotch bonnet and habanero are C. chinense: slow, and wanting the warmest spot under glass.
Superhots — 'Carolina Reaper', 'Trinidad Scorpion', 'Bhut Jolokia', 'Komodo Dragon'
Feed lightly, water consistently, and allow mild stress during ripening. Sow in January or February with bottom heat and grow under glass.
Ornamental peppers — 'Prairie Fire', 'Black Pearl', 'Medusa', 'Numex Twilight'
Minimal feeding; too much makes them leggy. Most are edible and many are fiery, so label them if children are about.
Greenhouse, polytunnel or outdoors
Greenhouse, polytunnel and windowsill
- Essential for superhots and most hot varieties in the UK climate
- Longer season: plant out in April, harvest through to October
- Feed at the upper end, every 2–3 weeks during peak
- Ventilate well, and on hot days open the vents fully and shade the glass
Outdoors
- Realistic only for mild–medium varieties in most of the UK
- Shorter season: transplant after the last frost (late May), harvest July–September
- Choose early-maturing varieties: jalapeño, Padron, cayenne, Hungarian wax
- Feed at mid-range, every 3–4 weeks
- Shelter from wind
- Fleece overnight if temperatures drop below 10°C
Watering, the make-or-break factor
Dry spells cost flowers, and uneven watering leaves fruit prone to blossom end rot. Keep compost evenly moist but never waterlogged, and water at the base. The one exception is easing off slightly as fruit ripens.
Pots and grow bags
Check daily from June; a greenhouse pot may need water twice a day in a heatwave. A light pot is a dry pot.
Greenhouse beds
Water deeply and less often than pots, and mulch with compost to even out the swings.
Outdoor beds
Rain rarely does the whole job. Water deeply once or twice a week in dry spells.
Calcium travels to the fruit in the water the plant draws up, so the 7% calcium in the bag and steady watering work as a pair.
UK seasonal timeline
| Month | Task | Feeding |
|---|---|---|
| Jan–Feb | Sow superhots and slow varieties at 25–30°C in a heated propagator. Superhots need 10–14 days to germinate. | — |
| March | Sow mild–medium varieties at 20–25°C. Pot on superhots to 9cm pots. | Begin feeding seedlings at quarter strength once they have 4 true leaves. |
| April | Pot on to final containers. Transplant to greenhouse positions, watching night temperatures. | Prepare greenhouse beds with base dressing (100–200g/m²). Begin the full feeding programme 10–14 days after transplanting. |
| May | Transplant outdoor varieties after the last frost (late May). First flowers on greenhouse plants. Pinch out the growing tip at 30cm for bushier plants (optional for most varieties). | Feed every 2–3 weeks. |
| June–July | Fruit setting on all nodes. Support plants with canes or cages as the fruit load increases. Remove any fruit touching the soil. | Peak feeding period. Feed every 2–3 weeks at the upper end. |
| August | First ripe fruit on most varieties. Reduce watering slightly to concentrate capsaicin. Harvest regularly to encourage continued fruiting. | Begin stretching the feed interval to 3–4 weeks. |
| Sep–Oct | Main harvest. Green fruit ripens on the plant or on a sunny windowsill after picking. Pull plants before the first frost. | Stop feeding 4–6 weeks before final harvest. |
Common problems
Blossom end rot
A sunken, leathery patch at the fruit tip. Consistent, deep watering is as important as calcium supply. Remove affected fruit; in severe cases, a root drench of Dr Forest Liquid Gypsum adds calcium. Our blossom end rot guide covers the same problem in tomatoes.
Flowers dropping without setting fruit
Flowers yellow and fall at the stalk. Ventilate and shade on hot days, maintain consistent temperatures and water regularly. If you are feeding at the upper end, reduce the rate.
Sunscald
White or tan papery patches on the sunny side of the fruit. Keep enough leaf cover to shade the fruit and don't strip leaves; in a greenhouse heatwave, put up shade netting. Affected fruit is edible but won't keep as long.
Chillies not as hot as expected
Buy fresh seed of a named variety, as home-saved seed may have crossed. Reduce feeding frequency, allow mild water stress during ripening and ensure 6+ hours of direct sun. Superhots need sustained temperatures above 25°C for maximum heat.
Tall, pale, floppy seedlings
Late-winter light is weak, and warm seedlings in poor light stretch. Once they are up, move them off the heat to the brightest spot you have and turn the pots daily.
The science of chilli heat, and what feeding can and cannot do
Chilli heat comes from capsaicinoids, made and stored in the placenta, the pale tissue that holds the seeds. How much a fruit makes is genetic first, then shaped by its development and its environment (Aza-González et al., 2011). Feeding comes further down the list.
Why the 3-3.5-7 ratio works
A chilli flowers and sets fruit for four months or more, so potash (7) runs at more than twice the nitrogen (3), with phosphorus (3.5) just above it. Nitrogen still earns its place: at the best rate, nitrogen-fed habaneros gave more than five times the fruit of unfed plants and kept high capsaicin levels, though capsaicin fell again at the heaviest rates (Medina-Lara et al., 2008). Calcium, magnesium and potash sit at roughly 3:1:3 (7%, 2.3% and 7%).
What decides how hot a chilli gets
Variety sets the range, and the same variety's heat can shift with the growing conditions (Zewdie and Bosland, 2000). Water matters too: holding it back from first flowering raised capsaicin in mature habanero fruit without cutting fruit numbers (Ruiz-Lau et al., 2011). Temperature decides how much fruit there is to be hot: 33°C cut bell pepper fruit set (Erickson and Markhart, 2001). Potassium on its own raised neither yield nor capsaicin in habanero (Medina-Lara et al., 2008).
Extra potash, sulphur or magnesium are often sold as ways to make chillies hotter. We could not find trial evidence for sulphur or magnesium, and no potash rate raised capsaicin in the habanero trial above. Starving plants is no answer either: the unfed habaneros were hot but carried a fraction of the fruit.
How the ingredients work, and how strong the evidence is
Nitrogen that keeps pace with fruiting
Plant protein, rapeseed meal, alfalfa and insect frass release nitrogen as soil organisms break them down over several weeks: a steady supply for a plant making leaves, flowers and fruit at once.
Calcium where the fruit needs it
Faster-growing sweet pepper fruit needed more calcium to escape blossom end rot (Marcelis and Ho, 1999), and work on tomato links the disorder to anything that speeds fruit expansion or cuts calcium delivery to the blossom end (Ho and White, 2005).
Polyhalite, released slowly
Polyhalite supplied potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur more efficiently than equivalent soluble sulphate salts, with less leaching (Yermiyahu et al., 2017). A wheat trial, but leaching is the same problem in a chilli pot.
Seaweed: some varieties respond, some don't
Seaweed extracts carry cytokinins and auxins (Craigie, 2011). A kelp concentrate (Ecklonia maxima, not the Scottish seaweed used here) used as a transplant dip and foliar spray increased marketable fruit in one of three greenhouse pepper varieties, with no significant effect on the other two (Arthur et al., 2003).
Organic feeding and pepper quality
Organically fed greenhouse sweet peppers made about a third less plant weight but the same marketable yield, with higher antioxidant activity and less beta-carotene (del Amor, 2007). Organic bell peppers in a one-season Polish comparison carried more vitamin C and carotenoids (Hallmann and Rembiałkowska, 2012). Two small studies: encouraging, but the evidence is thin.
Soil microbes, honestly
EM has weak evidence behind it: over four years in Switzerland, its yield effects came from the nutrients in the bokashi it was applied with, and living and sterilised EM performed alike (Mayer et al., 2010).
Study data
| Study | Scope | Finding |
|---|---|---|
| Medina-Lara et al. (2008) | Habanero, N and K rates | More than 5× the fruit at the best nitrogen rate, capsaicin kept high; capsaicin fell at heavier rates; potassium alone gave no gain |
| Ruiz-Lau et al. (2011) | Habanero, water deficit from flowering | Capsaicin up in the placenta of mature fruit; fruit numbers unchanged |
| Erickson and Markhart (2001) | Bell pepper at 33°C | Fruit set reduced; flower numbers unchanged |
| del Amor (2007) | Sweet pepper, organic vs conventional | Same marketable yield; 32.6% less plant fresh weight; higher antioxidant activity |
Scientific references
- Arthur, G.D. et al. (2003). Effect of a seaweed concentrate on the growth and yield of three varieties of Capsicum annuum. South African Journal of Botany, 69(2), 207–211.
- Aza-González, C. et al. (2011). Molecular biology of capsaicinoid biosynthesis in chili pepper (Capsicum spp.). Plant Cell Reports, 30(5), 695–706.
- Craigie, J.S. (2011). Seaweed extract stimuli in plant science and agriculture. Journal of Applied Phycology, 23(3), 371–393.
- del Amor, F.M. (2007). Yield and fruit quality response of sweet pepper to organic and mineral fertilization. Renewable Agriculture and Food Systems, 22(3), 233–238.
- Erickson, A.N. & Markhart, A.H. (2001). Flower production, fruit set, and physiology of bell pepper during elevated temperature and vapor pressure deficit. Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science, 126(6), 697–702.
- Hallmann, E. & Rembiałkowska, E. (2012). Characterisation of antioxidant compounds in sweet bell pepper (Capsicum annuum L.) under organic and conventional growing systems. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 92(12), 2409–2415.
- Ho, L.C. & White, P.J. (2005). A cellular hypothesis for the induction of blossom-end rot in tomato fruit. Annals of Botany, 95(4), 571–581.
- Lehmann, J. et al. (2011). Biochar effects on soil biota – a review. Soil Biology and Biochemistry, 43(9), 1812–1836.
- Marcelis, L.F.M. & Ho, L.C. (1999). Blossom-end rot in relation to growth rate and calcium content in fruits of sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum L.). Journal of Experimental Botany, 50(332), 357–363.
- Mayer, J. et al. (2010). How effective are 'Effective microorganisms (EM)'? Results from a field study in temperate climate. Applied Soil Ecology, 46(2), 230–239.
- Medina-Lara, F. et al. (2008). Influence of nitrogen and potassium fertilization on fruiting and capsaicin content in habanero pepper (Capsicum chinense Jacq.). HortScience, 43(5), 1549–1554.
- Naeem, M. et al. (2012). Triacontanol: a potent plant growth regulator in agriculture. Journal of Plant Interactions, 7(2), 129–142.
- Nardi, S. et al. (2002). Physiological effects of humic substances on higher plants. Soil Biology and Biochemistry, 34(11), 1527–1536.
- Rajametov, S.N. et al. (2021). The effect of night low temperature on agronomical traits of thirty-nine pepper accessions (Capsicum annuum L.). Agronomy, 11(10), 1986.
- Ruiz-Lau, N. et al. (2011). Water deficit affects the accumulation of capsaicinoids in fruits of Capsicum chinense Jacq. HortScience, 46(3), 487–492.
- Yermiyahu, U. et al. (2017). Polyhalite as a multi nutrient fertilizer – potassium, magnesium, calcium and sulfate. Israel Journal of Plant Sciences, 64(3–4), 145–157.
- Zewdie, Y. & Bosland, P.W. (2000). Evaluation of genotype, environment, and genotype-by-environment interaction for capsaicinoids in Capsicum annuum L. Euphytica, 111(3), 185–190.
Figures describe the published literature on these crops and ingredient classes and are not product-specific yield guarantees.
Frequently asked questions about chilli fertiliser
Little and often over a long season. Mix 5–10 g per litre into the compost at potting. Start top-dressing 10–14 days after transplanting, once you see new growth, at 1–3 g per litre of pot volume mixed with an equal amount of compost. Repeat every 2–3 weeks during active growth, then stretch to every 3–4 weeks as the fruit matures. Sweet peppers take the most and superhots and ornamentals the least, so watch the plants and adjust.
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